I would assume that with a piece that's
4' long, you'd push from a safe distance
until you have enough wood on the
outfeed to be able to shift your grip
and pull from there.
I did not clearly read what you had written. You indicated that you would
push the stock until enough wood was on the out feed surface and then shift
your grip and pull from there.
I replied Yes indicating that this would be a safe procedure visualizing you
switching to the out feed side of the jointer when the stock had begun to
pass to that side.
Charlie pointed out that you would still push from both sides regardless of
which end of the jointer you were working over.
I neglected to pick up on the key words you mentioned that were incorrect.
You indicated that when switching hand locations to the out feed side that
you would then pull, that is incorrect. You would continue to push the
stock on the out feed side.
I indicated Right again to Charlie because Charlie is most often right and
he corrected my misunderstanding of what you had said.
Ever notice that some long, wide boards will simpy not stay moving straight
over the cutter when all available hands are busy on the outfeed side?
My only problem with the method being commented upon is that, on long
boards, and particularly those that approach the maximum width capacity of
the jointer, you often need three hands, two pushing on the outfeed table,
and one on the infeed side to guide the stock past the blades.
But, there's hope for the future!
It's been my contention for some time now that evolution will eventually
give the wooddorker three hands and two more eyes on the back of his head so
no one can sneak up and scare shit out of him whilst attempting to
accomplish these often awkward tasks in the shop.
That said, all bets are off if you have an aircraft carrier flight deck
jointer, like B A R R Y ' S DJ-20! ;)
Yes, you push the board all the way through the cycle. First from the in
feed end at the beginning of the pass and then as the stock goes over the
out feed end you move your hands to the out feed end and continue to push.
You do not want to push down hard, as you indicated bearing down a bit, if
you push down too hard and the board is warped you will end up removing
stock that does not need to be removed.
This is one machine that tends to be an acquired touch to get consistently
Got it now. Finances and especially
space dictate that I won't be getting a
jointer any time soon, but if and when I
do, I'll certainly keep in mind that
it's a tool that has a bit of learning
Every tool I own does have one of
course. This sounds like it has a lot
more experimenting than most.
Thanks Leon. And Charlie.
Keep in mind that I an not a big fan of the Jointer. It is the least used
machine in my shop although it's size is a lot of the problem. You can
flatten a board in a planer with the right sled/jig and you can very easily
straighten a board with the TS with the right jig/sled. IMHO the jointer is
Jointing well, both edge and face, is a learned art. The machine looks
so bulky and basic but the slightest differences in technique make a
huge difference. You want to get some down pressure on the outfeed
side shortly after the material passess onto that side. For face joint
outfeed is the reference surface that controls the plane of the cut if
things are working correctly. In edge jointing, it and the fence are
Everyone develops their own technique and the length and heft of the
material makes a difference too.
Yes, pulling can kind of be effective but the real key is consistency
in pressure and speed across the entire span of the cut.
If you switch from a push to a pull at the cost of loosing consistency
you will be able to find the wave (or worse) in the face surface.
The strangest thing for me is if you push too hard down into the table
you will taper the board, even on a perfectly configured machine. A
smooth fine touch is really needed for excellent jointing. Sharp
blades, a feel for the cut and a few hundred cuts under your belt to
find your chi.
That's exactly what I'm talking about for bare handed or gloved face
jointing. My "short limit" is ~24". That allows my hand to be 12"
from the infeed side, and 6" from the outfeed. Shorter than that,
and I use pads.
Remember, the whole reason for skipping the pads is because certain
wood is more difficult to move with the pads. Shorter and thinner
boards are easier to begin with.
I have "danger zones" taped, painted, or marked, on all of my flesh
eaters and the sleds and jigs I use with them. For example, my jointer
has red tape on the top of the fence. If my hands will go into the red
area, I rethink the cut.
When edge jointing, I never, ever, use blocks or sticks. After ~ 8" of
stock has been cut, my right hand "pulls" the stock along the fence, and
my left is on the table, acting like a featherboard. The entire cut is
referenced to the outfeed table and fence for great accuracy, and my
hands apply no pressure that would send them towards danger in case of
Anyone who has:
A.) Seen Glen's work...
-- or --
B.) Read any of the hundreds of other things he's written, including
Would know that even if you don't agree with everything he says, the
man has lots to offer.
The blog post is HIS singular opinion.
Personally, I'd be afraid to post what he did. It works for him, but
he is completely aware and comfortable with the physics of the
Unfortunately, I just know somebody will get a glove stuck, and his
personal injury lawyer will be contacting Mr. Huey and the magazine.
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