O.K. I've not experienced that on mine -- but given some of the motors on the import H/V bandsaws, that is a possibility. And *that* is a good reason for replacing the motor with one which delivers the nameplate horsepower, instead of being mostly empty air in a too-large housing trying to look like an adequate motor. :-) I've read the reports of motors getting so hot that they burn the hands of the user, but mine never gets that hot. MSC got a proper motor put into it, apparently.
Enjoy, DoN.
"DoN. Nichols" fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@Katana.d-and-d.com:
Don, I'm not picking on your answer... I had to respond to someone's, and yours got the prize...
This is the dumbest discussion I've ever heard (short of all the political spew on here).
Even half-quality garbage plastic switches from China are NOT prone to accidentally 'switching on' from accumulations of dust or swarf.
That it's a remote possibility, I won't deny. But such switches typically serve for years to decades without a malfunction in the dusty, dirty, swarf-filled environments in which we use them, and it's dumb to think of the average home craftsman's going to the trouble to re-wire, retrofit, and otherwise jigger-up his equipment with low voltage contactors and safety circuits. That some would or even could is beside the question.
This discussion should be turned to "What's the best-quality switch I can buy affordably that will suit the safety needs of the application." For that, I recommend a good industrial-quality safety-style switch that requires a simple swipe of the hand to turn off, and a positive 'de- locking' action to turn on.
My old (1970s) Shopsmith came with one. When I finally wore it out in the 1990s, I replaced it with the same-quality switch from a US maker (IIRC it was a Square-D safety switch, specifically for table saws). You could knock it off easily, but had to pull the bat out manually to turn it back on -- heavy-duty thing. It lasted more than 20 years of nearly daily use, and the replacement is still on the machine, still working.
LLoyd
The AC switch that was used on the table saw that became permanently turned "ON" was a standard house hold light switch that wasn't sealed. The saw dust accumulated behind the contacts inside the switch casing. When the saw was wheeled in and out of the garage, the saw dust pushed the contacts closed. When I cracked open the AC switch it was literally stuffed full of saw dust. I replaced the switch and covered up all openings in the metal box that the switch was mounted in.
Shaun
"Shaun" fired this volley in news:aH0Cu.837$ snipped-for-privacy@fx06.iad:
Shaun, I think you just proved my point. The switch was not intended for that exposure, nor was it intended to switch inductive loads.
Your situation is common, but not to be compared even diagonally with installations that have designed-to-purpose switches.
LLoyd
Am 12.01.2014 01:48, schrieb DaveC:
1.) Safety issues. It is a lot safer to have the machine shut off, when the power is cut. Otherwise the saw might start up again, while you have your fingers on the blade or so. Or the blade is stuck and starting the saw can ruin the blade/motor/mechanics. 2.) When using a simple on-off-switch, there is really no good way to have it stop, other than turning the switch. When you use a contactor, you can start and stop the saw with multiple switches, for example a two-button-start, to ensure both hands are away from the blade, or one stop-button and a sensor/switch, that stops the saw, when it hits a certain point or so. In our company we have special motor-switches, that have an under voltage-switch attached. The switch has two buttons (on and off; who would have thought :-) and the under voltage-switch is attached on the side and turns the switch off, when the voltage drops below a certain value, via a mechanical rod assembly. And that on machines, that, theoretically will just give you a good whack if it starts up and you have a body part in there. Might also be a good reason to install something like that in a band saw.Greets
Tom
Readers of this thread may be interested in this and similar devices:
How does a low-voltage switch work via a mechanical rod assembly?
Can't picture this...
"DaveC" <
Picture this: a "linear rheostat". ;>)} The shoe could be moved by the rod ass'y. pdk
Check out the price on those units. How about around 113 dollars for the privilege of buying their gadget?
I like the 12 buck switch that does the same thing and comes with the off paddle.-- Jim in NC
The relay just drops out and stays out until the trip is released.
Very important in some cases. Especially when an order of power up is required.
Mart> Readers of this thread may be interested in this and similar devices: >
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