Life is indeed short and I, for one, am not picky at all ... particularly
when faced with such a display of consistency. AAMOF, I wouldn't think of
asking if that tailor's name was indeed, "Taylor", or remarking upon how
appropriate it was, if that were the case, that he got into the tailoring
game. I mean, you don't run across a tailor name Taylor everyday ...
remarkable, more or less.
True. My uncle John, and his son (John Jr.) still hand-hammer blades,
and as far as I can tell, they do a really fine job of it, Plenty of
small shops around that use old techniques as a matter of necessity.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
I just bought my first TS and a FWWII blade. It started off flat to
within .001. Then, I had a bad kickback episode (before I bought some
board buddies) and the blade actually twisted visibly about an inch.
Now its .002 off- what am I gonna do!? I cant work with such
Cuts like butter. No complaints here. Though I did buy a 6" stiffener
and have not noticed any difference other than that my depth of cut is
only 1 5/8", and that after chiseling out some of my zero clearance
insert to make more vertical room for the stiffener.
No problem. Forrest will straighten the blade for you for a few extra bucks.
Some dummy bent one of my WWII's tilting the blade while forgetting to
remove a zero clearance insert ... came back from Forrest like new.
I also have the stiffener, which I find unnecessary, but most of the
time I leave it on (so I don't feel like a fool for spending $25 on it).
I don't like the loss in depth either, for the rare time I need close
to the full height of the blade. 99% of the time, I'm cutting 3/4"
stock, so even on top of my sled, I don't need more than 2" of blade
When my WWII was brand new it was really, really close to having NO
runout. In time, it got tweaked maybe 4-6 thousandths. A minute or two
of finding the spot where it had runout and a judicious application of
force with my hand got it back to near-perfect. Been fine ever since.
The only time that blade comes off is when I need to dado, use the
molding cutters, or need a clean edge on melamine. For the melamine I
love the Freud double-sided melamine blade. oh, and the SD-508 also
leaves a perfect edge on Melamine or ply. Such tools are such a
pleasure to use.
Bob in Oregon wrote:
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