At 240v the saw will use 1/2 the current compared to 120v, so the power is
the same (V*I). However, lower current will mean less voltage drop in the
feed wires, and less heating in the wires and motor. (This is also assuming
that you're making the proper connection in the saw; if you run 240 with the
saw at set 120, it will double the power, at least until the wires fry..)
That being said, I would agree with one of the other posters; if you don't
have easy access to 240 already, stick with 120, assuming it's already
there. If you're doing new wiring, wire both into the area and use 240 for
the stuff that can take advantage of it and leave 120v outlets for
I'm approaching this from the supposition that the OP is a hobbyist in
his own home.
I thought every home had 220 available to it through the fact that the
drop from the utility pole is two hot leads and a neutral. The two
hot leads each power a row of breakers in the service panel. A 220
breaker simply attaches to both leads.
When I got a tool that said to plug it in to 220, all I did was buy
the neccessary electrical stuff (breaker, 12ga. wire, conduit, ect.)
to make it happen. It was easy. It might have cost 20 or 30 bucks to
do. I used the advise of people that know how and read over two
different books on wiring a house for the subject of adding an outlet.
I am not an electrician but can follow instructions.
Keep in mind it is a little technical to do this, get an electrician
to do it for you if your uncomfortable or want someone else to blame
if it all goes bad. Even using an electrician won't be all that much
On Sat, 3 Apr 2004 01:09:29 -0500, "Mike O."
I was referring to the availibility of 220 in the shop area. In my
garage/shop, there's a couple of 120 circuits, plenty of outlets, but no
dedicated 220 run. I don't have anyhing that has to have 220 (at least not
yet..) It wouldn't be impossible to run it, but it would be a hassle.
Based on the way I understood the original posters needs, I wouldn't think
it would be worth the trouble to run a new line to his shop if he already
had 120. Of course, I can't see his setup; if it's an easy run from the
breaker panel to the shop, and he's willing (and able) to add the circuit,
he could go for it. I just figured his expected needs and the benefits he
would get from 220 for just one tool probably wouldn't be worth too much
trouble to add.
OK, first of all I am new at this stuff. Second, I do have an electric dryer
in the area that is 220 so adding the breaker and running line for an outlet
should be relativly easy for me. I was just curious as to what would make my
saw run more efficient.
Then I'm sorry, I didn't say about whether your existing saw would run
Since I'm not an electrician and cannot remark about relative
efficiencies derived from calculation, I can say that if it were me,
I'd try it both ways (wiring it 110 & then 220) and comparing the
performance of the saw when cutting wood.
My original remarks came from running 220 over to my jointer. My
jointer required 220. I'm happy as a pig in slop with that. It's SO
much better than the old one. Never bogs down. To put it to an
automotive analogy, it was like trading up to a Corvette from a Geo
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