which is better 120 or 240

[Pounds on Wood]

I hope you are enjoying yourself :-) Look what you gone an done! And two days late too.

[Lowell Holmes]

Sorry Randy, your approach is much too straight forward and simple. :-)

[Doug Miller]

Invert that, buddy. You don't understand what you're talking about here.

False.

That would be true *if* the resistance were the same. But it's not.

.. which is exactly what happens when you re-jumper a dual voltage motor to operate at 240V instead of 120V.

You're the one making assumptions, the primary one being the assumption that you understand how dual-voltage motors work. You don't.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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[Tim Douglass]

Realize that the supply run is from the electrical panel. My garage/shop is 24' wide. It is 10' tall. The panel is on the opposite wall from where I am installing my shop tools. I need 8' of wire up to the ceiling, 24' to cross the building, 5' down to where the outlets will be and about 12' along the wall to where I want the saw outlet. That totals 49 feet. Add the 20' cord on the saw and you are starting to talk about measurable voltage drop on a 120V circuit. In many cases you will have a lot more distance. It is amazing how fast it adds up.

The other place where it matters is in the efficiency of the motor. Even after re-wiring my previous shop to feed my saw with #10 wire at

120V it bogged badly, it is an 18A motor and draws about 24A on startup. I would routinely blow a 20A breaker if the blade was a bit dull or the saw was otherwise loaded. After converting to 240V it clearly runs better. It starts faster, never bogs down and I suspect that the RPMs are a bit higher, since it seems to "sing" a tone higher.

I might even add that a lot of places are wired with #14 wire on 15A circuits - and that is not heavy enough to run any useful table saw. So my feeling is that the only drawback to going with 240V is the cost of wiring and there are many benefits while there are really no benefits to staying on 120V other than the savings of wiring costs. Of course I do my own wiring, so it only takes about $30 to add a 240V circuit with appropriate breaker, wire and receptacle.

YMMV

Tim Douglass

[Doug Miller]

Oh, I get it now -- you're Trent Sauder, posting under a sock puppet, up to your old tricks of saying something dumb and then pretending it was all a joke. Wondered where you'd been, Trent.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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[Toller]

I make no assumptions at all. He is proposing connecting his saw to 240v rather than 120v. Reread the OP, that is ALL he says. Making no assumptions at all, current will double and power will quadruple.

If YOU make the ASSUMPTION that he "re-jumpers" the motor, then everything changes, but then you are ignoring the OP and giving out potentially dangerous misinformation. If he was going to change the wiring, don't you think he would have given details?

When you are wrong you should just admit it; cause now you are just sounding stupid.

[Doug Miller]

Take your own advice. You clearly have no idea what you're talking about.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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[Toller]

Can't pull anything over on you Dougie! Yup, I really thought you could just double voltage. Thank God there are people like you to set things right!

[Robert Bonomi]

277 single-phase, if you can't manage 440-delta.

[Bernard Randall]

Doug,

No use taking this any further, the guy obviously doesn't understand English, if he actually reads the OP, repeated below it does say it has the OPTION of being either voltage, it doesn't say, as our friend seems to imply, that it can be pluged in unaltered to either.

There are four levels in learing any new skill, guess which one he belongs to:

Unconcious Incompetent: Doesn't know he doesn't know. Concious Incompetent: Knows he doesn't know. Concious Competent: Knows that he knows. Unconcious Competent: Knows that he knows without having to think about it.

Bernard R

[CW]

[Toller]

Since it doesn't say anything about alteration, you assume it WILL be altered, instead of that it WON'T. Geez, that is moronic. What does pluge (an acronym for "Picture Line Up Generation Equipment") have to do with it.

[Mike O.]

I was referring to the availibility of 220 in the shop area. In my garage/shop, there's a couple of 120 circuits, plenty of outlets, but no dedicated 220 run. I don't have anyhing that has to have 220 (at least not yet..) It wouldn't be impossible to run it, but it would be a hassle.

Based on the way I understood the original posters needs, I wouldn't think it would be worth the trouble to run a new line to his shop if he already had 120. Of course, I can't see his setup; if it's an easy run from the breaker panel to the shop, and he's willing (and able) to add the circuit, he could go for it. I just figured his expected needs and the benefits he would get from 220 for just one tool probably wouldn't be worth too much trouble to add.

Mike O.

[Bernard Randall]

But nowhere near as moronic as saying he would get four times the power by using 240V, which is patently false no matter how you try and justify it.

I believe that, as the OP had enough sense to discover that the TS was dual voltage capable, he also has the ability to see what is necessary to do to achieve that change. Unless someone shows that they are moronic, which is how I will regard you for here on, I give them the benefit of having reasonable intelligence. In any case I don't give misleading or false information as you did in this case.

We all get fed up with answering the same question almost every other day, but you always have the option to ignore it, reference it off or try and give a sensible answer.

This guy asked a reasonable simple question, he deserved a simple straight answer.

Rant, rave as much as you like, as far as I'm concerned this is the last you'll hear from me.

Bernard R

[Greg O]

I just figured he mis-spelled his name, it should read Troller, not Toller!! Greg

[searcher1]

OK, first of all I am new at this stuff. Second, I do have an electric dryer in the area that is 220 so adding the breaker and running line for an outlet should be relativly easy for me. I was just curious as to what would make my saw run more efficient.

Searcher1

[searcher1]

Thats what I was thinking, the less amps I am drawing the less money I give to my local electric company.

Searcher1

[Doug Miller]

The power company measures watts, not amps. 240V at 10A is the same power consumption as 120V at 20A.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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[xrongor]

come on dude. im sure even you know something is gonna get switched in the saw if he uses 220 v 110. arguing the point further does indeed make you look... well.. like you just want to argue.

randy

[Lazarus Long]

Then I'm sorry, I didn't say about whether your existing saw would run more efficiently.

Since I'm not an electrician and cannot remark about relative efficiencies derived from calculation, I can say that if it were me, I'd try it both ways (wiring it 110 & then 220) and comparing the performance of the saw when cutting wood.

My original remarks came from running 220 over to my jointer. My jointer required 220. I'm happy as a pig in slop with that. It's SO much better than the old one. Never bogs down. To put it to an automotive analogy, it was like trading up to a Corvette from a Geo Metro.