When you try your first dovetails, use a soft wood and don't use oak! I
was taught by a German and they always cut the pins first. I did that
for a red oak box and had a helluva job cutting the tails in that
coarse-grained hard wood. I should have cut the tails first, English style.
One of the reasons I sold the MB. Not only was that koa wood not
great, sonically, it was damn heavy, too. It was a special 100W 1x12
combo amp and between the super large magnet on the spkr and the heavy
koa wood, the lil' sucker weighed in at over 80lbs. I'm gettin too
old fer that kinda nonsense.
I now play thru a small tube practice amp (5W Bugera) that is made of
PB. Sucker is pretty solid, but I've yet to spill a beer on it and we
all know a R&R amp ain't right until it's had beer spilled on it. ;)
I've read baltic birch is a good tonewood and is often used for guitar
BTW, it's officially a "Rock n' Roll amp", now. I spilled beer on it,
last night. No real harm done, but I'm gonna make any future cabs
"beer proof". ;)
Is this an amp with speakers, or just a head? If it's
just a head, it doesn't much matter what you make it
from, as long as it looks good.
If it has speakers, yeah, you probably want to choose
materials that won't affect the sound, or at least not
in ways you don't want.
I plan ona spkr only cabinet. Probably jes one spkr, but the cab will
be set up to accommodate different spkrs, easily changed out. Why buy
a combo when heads are cheaper? Then change the spkr in the cabinet
to one that fits the style of playing. That's my plan. ;)
You're probably not going to like that idea after you change out a
speaker the first time. Go for a good speaker right off the bat and
rely on your fingers, your guitar settings and your amp EQ/gain, etc. to
get the sound you want for a particular style.
How old? And how rusty?
In many cases, rather than spending effort polishing up an
old saw, just using it to cut wood will remove the surface
rust and leave a nice patina.
What you really want to worry about is if it's sharp. If
it's fairly modern, it's probably made from an induction-
hardened steel that will resist sharpening, but if it's
older it would be worth grabbing a saw file and sharpening
it. Ideally you'd have a saw vise to hold it, but you can
clamp it between a couple of boards. There's a knack to
saw sharpening, but it's not that hard to get it.
An interesting opinion (I assume you meant "A2" rather than
"A1", since A1 doesn't seem to exist). I have always understood
that high chromium steels are basically impossibly to sharpen
on normal stones, and can only be ground.
I also note that Ron Hock, who has some reputation in the field
of tool blades, favors A2 and O1 over other steels.
According to the link you cited, FWW rated the LN chisels "best
western style", which doesn't exactly sound like "meh". I'd
guess LN selected the steel they use to have a good tradeoff
between durability and ease of sharpening (I looked for my copy
of that issue of FWW to see if there was more detail, but as
usual it seems the issue I want is missing from the stack).
I do have a set of the LN chisels. I save them for fine work,
so I can't really speak to their durability. I have a set of
old Marples for day-to-day use.
Incidenly, notbob should be happy to know FWW rated the Narex
brand "best value".
On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 9:07:43 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:
I DID mean A2, thanks for the catch. But you should probably tell these gu
ys to knock it off:
Absolutely no doubt. Some of the best lathe turning tools (setting aside t
he powdered Crucible metals) have been shop made from O1.
Middle of the pack to me, qualifies as "meh". Remember, I made it clear I
love my steels. I can take a lesser steel for a lesser price, but a higher
priced chisel with a premium steel needs to have that steel pushed to its
From the FWW article, verbatim:
"Its mid-range length is great for controlled detail work, yet its blade is
long enough for moderate-range paring. The A2 blade's durability found a s
pot in the middle of the pack, but in spite of this, the ergonomics prevail
Certainly your experience may be different, but my personal experience alon
g with their "middle of the pack" comment after testing reflect on another.
Like you I wasn't interested enough to find the magazine with the exact ar
ticle, so their summary made the point in just a few sentences.
Always (and this is where the LNs excel) is the consideration of how comfor
table a chisel is to use. I have had some nice chisels over the years that
had nice steel, but were absolutely miserable to use for anything but a bu
tt chisel. Ergos all wrong, contours of the handles wrong, unbalanced in t
he hand, etc., bad enough that they made the nice steel a waste of time. I
never could figure out how to rehandle them, so they became beaters.
I hope if he tries them he lets us know. They seem to get a lot of good re
views, but always with the caveat "especially for the price" or "can't beat
these for the price" etc. The good news is you can buy them one or two at
a time to try them out.
Well, that got me curious. Those guys might be refering to
303 stainless, since their spec has a lot of nickel and 303
stainless is also known as "A1" in someone's numbering system.
The A2, etc, numbering system comes from the AISI by way of
the SAE. Apparently the AISI started a list sometime in the
late 1940s (it's not in my 1948 Machinery's Handbook), assigning
the numbers in sequence, but never actually writing a spec for
them. When the SAE took over, I'm guessing they either thought
A1 was obsolete, or couldn't figure out what it was intended
to be, so they started at A2.
On Tuesday, May 3, 2016 at 9:49:10 AM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:
At this point, who knows? There are so many steels out there being used fo
r everything one can imagine it is silly. I used to read a lot about it, b
ut finally just lost interest.
BLADEFORUMS is a place where makers and enthusiasts argue steel, manufactur
ers, properties, designations, names and country of origins all day long, e
Biting issues such as "does 440c perform as well as 9crMov?"
And is "S110v less brittle if cryo-quenched for an extended period"
Along with "154cm v. S30V, you decide after forging yourself which has bett
er end results". Of course that is followed by the neanderthals that scream
that since 1095 was good enough for their grandfathers, it is good enough
for them. Answered by the folks that insert their own favorite steel into
the discussion and question why we wouldn't use a better product if it was
They argue on and on about steel designations, its properties, the accuracy
of the mills that make them, the "equivalent" steels made in other countri
es to match our standards and their respective differences, and then compar
e performance of each. It is common for a ABS Bladesmith to find a steel h
e likes, then try his best to master it for a cutting tool, and when master
ed become his trademark steel.
A few years ago they were competing to find out the weirdest things about c
ommon steels, all in fun. That was a treasure trove as to be in the discus
sion you had to cite your source, and not just Google. I found out that S3
0V (a great knife steel!) is actually a steel developed in Sweden for the s
having razor industry. Learned that D2 was developed in the late 40s for h
eavy die stamping forms such as the auto industry that was using it for doo
r, trunk and hood stamps. Its abrasion and corrosion resistance led to som
eone experimenting with it as a cutting steel. One guy claimed (and backed
it up to the satisfaction of the group) that certain American shock absorbe
r makers were using a low RC O1 as the rods in their product. They got a l
etter from one of he manufacturers that confirmed it! And while they had be
en making woodturning tools from the round O1 stock in shock absorbers for
years, the guys that make woodturning tools had no idea it was likely O1.
Too many steels now, too many designations, and too many renames and relist
ings. I don't really see how anyone could keep up with it all accurately.
If you're not in a hurry, watch eBay for estate clearance stuff and the
like...not infrequently there is really good quality stuff for minimal
prices but you've got to be able to discern what is and isn't and have
the patience to wait for it...
Or, as another posted, yard sales and the like are essentially the same
process on foot with advantages (get to see it first) and disadvantages
(do have to go do the legwork to get there while there's still something
to be seen).
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.