I've heard that thin veneers with water-based glues are a problem, because the water expands the veneer, then on drying it can check or curl. One can, however, apply a thin Titebond glue layer, to each of the two surfaces, let it all dry, then iron it down like a hotmelt glue.
I've personally found contact cement very effective and the long working time means you needn't (cannot, really) rush.
Yeah, I was surprised at how nicely it worked. Not gonna replace Titebond with it unless I develop some production volume at some point but it's not bad.
I'm starting to think that Jello was invented as a drinking bet between two food chemists, to see if glue could be sold as food.
The hot stuff lasts forever dry. Even mixed, unused glue can be stored for a long time in the refrigerator. Mold will ruin it, but I suspect preheating in a microwave kills any spores, same as microwaving a sponge sterilizes it. The jar I mixed up a month ago still hasn't transmogrified into something horrid and foul.
One of my favorites for wood veneers and laminating lately:
Sonny wrote: : I've repaired small veneer chips/missing pieces, using Titebond II, : successfully. I now have a old dresser project with 2 drawers missing : the veneer on their faces.
: What type of glue is appropriate for larger sheets of veneer : application? I don't think typical yellow glue is the appropriate : glue. The drawer faces measure 42"W X 8"H. Base wood is solid maple : and the veneer will be mahogany.
This is a good application for yellow glue, which can be applied, let dry, then will reactivate if you go over it with a clothes iron (forget the right temp range, fairly low).
Or hide glue. There are several inexpensive books on veneering, any one of which will give details on hide glue.
Do NOT use contact cement.
-- Andy Barss
Unless you already have a glue pot, use the liquid hide glue. It's not worth using hot hide glue for one project. Take a look at:
tools and glues, and willing to patiently explain his choices. He does mostly restoration projects and is a big proponent of hide glues, using the exclusively ... even Franklin's Liquid Hide Glue, in lieu of the real thing.
Lately I've had the pleasure of visiting with him, one on one, in a couple of video "Hangouts" on Google+, very informative.
(He was looking for a guinea pig to test his video camera out, and I was the lucky one in that regard, so I took full advantage of the opportunity) :)
Actually, I tend to go with the liquid stuff any time I don't need the extra strength of a high grade hot glue. Which certainly is the case for veneering.
While there are cheap alternatives to a glue pot that work well, including the one you show, there's still the problem of the glue gelling too quickly if the shop and/or the wood is cool.
Yes, one can solve that problem with a little urea, but that starts to resemble the liquid stuff anyway so why bother.
Everybody has there own preferences and the hot hide glue certainly is more traditional.
Unibond 800 is made for veneer. It dries rock hard (so no veneer creep at the seams) and is not water based (so the veneer doesn't get all curly on you when you apply the glue to the back of the veneer.
Mitch
But it requires pressure. In fact the web site says it's designed for use with a vacuum press. With hide glue, hot or liquid, all you need is a veneer hammer, and some folks make do with a roller.
How about the ability to do curved surfaces without either a press or a form? A cinch with hide glue because of its quick grab.
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