I was clamping some tenons and wiped away the excess glue
with a dry rag. I worry a little about how the thin residue
of glue might affect the finish. But I also read some time
ago not to use a wet rag because it causes problems with
raising the grain.
What's the definitive choice? To wet or not to wet?
The _definitive_ choice is use less glue so eliminate squeeze out... :)
The alternative is to finish or wax surface first so glue doesn't soak
into wood fibers.
As for cleanup when neither of above applies (my usual scenario by the
way) I use damp, not wet nor dry...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:50:42 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
I use the tape method too and it works well. Just remember, if you're
not careful with the tape you'll either end up with glue you will have
to sand or scrape off or you'll end up with some tape caught in the
Be careful out there.
1) Use less glue.
2) Apply glue with a plumber's acid brush with the bristles trimmed
back to about 1/2".
3) Tape joints with blue painter's tape.
Do not use cream colored masking tape.
4) Rinse away excess glie with a water soaked plumber's acid brush,
then wipe dry. Repeat as required.
Mastering 1 & 2 above eliminates the need for 3 & 4.
Is this a common practice? The only time I've even seen a glue line is
when the glued pieces weren't jointed properly.
Maybe I'm clamping too tight and staving the joint, but I've never had
any weakness in the joints.
I'm curious about what others think on this issue.
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
It is for me. While I usually do not have a problem with excess glue I
really do not try to remove or worry about some slight squeeze out in hard
to get are areas. Inside cabinets web frames, bottoms of boxes, inside
through DT joints and box joints, etc. In those cases I use the color that
matches the best.
IMHO there are times that certain glue squeeze out is not worth removing but
going with a color to help hide any that may appear works out well.
If you have entirely coated the surfaces with glue you can clamp to you
hearts content, there will be no glue starvation. 30 years ago I clamped
our oak dresser top so tightly that the bar clamps left very noticable
impressions on the edges. I trimmed the edges to clean that up. The
dresser looks as good today and has held up exceptionally well.
With the availability of high quality laminating epoxy which BTW,
cures clear and bridges gaps adding strength in the process, why would
anybody use overpriced, under peckered Gorilla glue?
It _is_ awesome glue. but one bitch to work with..... sticky foamy
bitch to work with....(with which to work?) So ifn when you're going
through all the hassle, why NOT epoxy?
I mended a couple of 1 x 6 cedar planks in a distant neighbour's
fence, as a temporary measure, 5 years ago? Still there. Still full
strength. HE claims a domestic disturbance. *I* claim he should have
just paid that Michigan hooker beFORE she drove her Cavalier through
that fence...... yup, Cavalier...high class.
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