I'll apologize that this is somewhat off topic in advance, but the
expertise is here.
I am finishing my basement, myself. Floor is down, UGL'd the whole
foundation, 6 mil plastic, 2 x 4 solid insulation in between, and then
plywood on top. All brought home on top of my Taurus, ha.
Now, I'm ready to put some partition walls up. The first wall will run
under metal beams, I beams, 6 inches wide at top and bottom. How do I
secure the top of my wall to the beam? Is there a 'code' way to do it.
The wall may take some shelves on the inside of the room it creates, so
I want to be on the safe side here. The ceiling is open, so the rest of
the basement I'll just screw into the joists. This is the one place I'm
parellel to the beam.
You may not need anything. Is this an end wall supported by side walls or
will it be open at either end? It's like building a box, the first side
won't be stable on its own but becomes very stable when you add one side to
it and much more so when you add the other side. Unless it's a long span
(10"+) you shouldn't have a problem IMO.
If you are concerned about it, you can drill a few holes and drop some
threaded rod with nuts at each end.
: I'll apologize that this is somewhat off topic in advance, but the
: expertise is here.
: I am finishing my basement, myself. Floor is down, UGL'd the whole
: foundation, 6 mil plastic, 2 x 4 solid insulation in between, and then
: plywood on top. All brought home on top of my Taurus, ha.
: Now, I'm ready to put some partition walls up. The first wall will run
: under metal beams, I beams, 6 inches wide at top and bottom. How do I
: secure the top of my wall to the beam? Is there a 'code' way to do it.
: The wall may take some shelves on the inside of the room it creates, so
: I want to be on the safe side here. The ceiling is open, so the rest of
: the basement I'll just screw into the joists. This is the one place I'm
: parellel to the beam.
Beam up top, floor on bottom. One end hits the poured foundation, I'd
rather not drill into the foundation, other end about 12 feet away, is a
metal lolly(sp?) column holding up the beam. Thank you for the reply,
I'll do the rods/bolts as you suggest.
On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:37:47 -0400, "Cherokee-LTD"
Codes can differ depending on where you are, but I'd go with long
bolts or threaded rods myself. Same concept as buying tools- buy
quality and you only cry once. Only in this case it should read build
quality (Or you can call it over-building, if you like) and you only
My preferred method is to weld studs on the beam then attach nailer to the
However, for a partition wall in a basement, I might try using a
powder-actuated nail gun (Ramset type) to attach a nailer. If that fails,
(beam to stubborn or insufficient charges in gun) you can drill and bolt or
even specialized tek screws.
You could always take some clamps and liquid nails the top plate to the
beam, then plumb down to find the location for your sill, then add the
studs. Ramsets are great for fastening the sill to the concrete, but I
doubt you'll get a drive pin through the beam as the steel is usually around
3/8" thick. If you decide to build the wall on the floor first and then
stand it, check the floor to beam height in several spots and go with your
smallest measurement for the wall height. If your are going to drywall
everything, you may want to build a soffit around the whole beam (boxing it
in) and putting your wall under the soffit. This will allow you to conceal
the beam with the drywall. --dave
How about you build a partition wall on each side of the beam, kinda
clamping the beam between the studs? You'll end up with a fatter
partition wall, but you can then have the shelves built into the wall on
the one side.
Will, this is exactly why I love the rec. Ideas like this that I never
would have thought of. Gonna run this by SWMBO. One side of this wall
will be a room, the other side is to be a hallway that can lose a few
inches with no problem and can use the built-ins.
Thanks for the tip.
I had to do the same thing, only my girder was a triple 2x10. There was
a lally column that got buried in the partition wall too.
My partition wall turned out to be 17.5" thick, but I had to allow room
for pipes and elec wire that ran alongside the girder. Yours should be
about 14" wide (4 + 6 + 4, including sheetrock) which would allow for
9.5" deep shelves.
Put the wall to one side of the beam. Then when you finish the side of the
wall where the beam is visible, incorporate the beam into the finishing.
You can either wrap the steel beam in wood and make it look like a wooden
beem or pehapse put built in book shelves on that side of the wall. Then
the beam could be hidden by the panel that covers the space between the
top shelf and the ceiling.
Joe, there are several ways to fasten lumber to I beams. Usually I
beams are 1/4" thick on the flange, easy enough to drill. You only
need 3 holes or less. Lag bolts or screws finish it up. Adhesive can
also be used instead of drilling. Top plate is installed first with
adhesive and a few studs to prop it up.If you can clamp the top plate
you can go ahead and install the studs. Cut studs very snug,about 1/8"
oversize. You can use power actuated guns to shoot special nails for
steel. The last thing, this is something that I learned 40 + years
ago. The beam is 6" wide, cut 1/8" x 1" flat mallable iron 9"
long.Drill two holes to fasten it to top plate with roofing nails. The
iron is on top of the plate, prop the plate into line on the
beam.Begin hammering the iron up at 90 degrees to bend around web.When
done it should look U shaped. Same for other side of iron.The bends
should be sharp, if you have trouble with the top bend because of
limited hammer swinging space, the apply clamp and beat down at same
time.This method is used when the beam is too difficult to drill, PL ,
Titebond, etc were not around when I first used this method.
If the drilling is easy,then I would go this route.
I was faced with the same issue a while back. I Ramset'd (?) a plate to the
underside of the beam (yes, Ramset will happily go thru a 2x4 and the
flange. I then Ramset'd a 2x4 floor plate to the concrete, and framed the
wall with metal studs. The wood floor plate allowed me to fasten baseboard
trim more securely.
Another suggestion. Further down the same beam, I needed a bit more hallway
space, so I framed an all-wood wall floor to floor joists above, but right
up against the side of the I beam. It provides a flat wall on one side, but
I needed a bulkhead (like above kitchen cabinets) to hide the I beam on the
other. This wasn't a problem because I made that bulkhead a little wider
and installed some potlights. Finished product looks like it was designed
that way (which it was,I guess) and you'd never know it was hiding a beam.
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