Tung Oil Again!

I have read all archives regarding Tung Oil in this NG since January this year from kind, helpful and experienced users.
I have another question, let say I need to finished FAST some small walnuts and oaks part. This is what I planned to do: I will apply the parts with Tung oil mixtures (50% Tung oil 50% paint thinner) and wipe all excess oil. It should dry in an hour, sand lightly with #0000 steel wool. Apply first coats of Polyurethane, wait for 24 hrs sand it again before applying another coat of polyurethane and so on until I get the finishes I need.
My question, can I speed up the process if I apply a heat gun (carefully) on the parts to increase the temperature? What would you do to speed up the process rather than waiting 24 hrs according to instruction from Woodcraft's 100% pure Tung oil? I may apply three polyurethane coats or more that depend on the finished.
My garage temp for this time of the year is about 30 degrees to 50 degree and humidity below 50%. I could do leave the parts in the house, temps from 68 to 70 degrees and humidity 1/2 setting. Your advice most appreciated.
Thank you everyone
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If you're using oil-based poly, disregard the first step with the tung. The oil in them will get help polymerizing from the resins and driers.

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Screw 'em. 23 hours is plenty.

Garage is way to cold for any oil finish that I'm aware of. This time of year I brink my projects into the house and wait overnight to apply finish. Ed
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On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 18:30:47 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@nomanland.com (BlueDude) wrote:

Unless someone here has got a really good trick, I'd suggest just using something else. Tung Oil takes forever and a day to dry, even in warm weather. Try one of the "natural" stains, they dry really quickly, and look almost as good, IMO.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
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replying to Prometheus, Melanie wrote: Prometheus! I want to ask you about boiled linseed oil (and life philosophies). Please contact me.
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There's an additive you can use called "Japan Drier." Adding a small amount of these metalic salts will help your tung oil to cure faster.
A couple of tips - a little bit goes a long way. I'll use a capfull added to a quart of finish (pure oil, oil and thinner mixed, or with or without stain).
Don't mix more than you'll need, and don't re-mix any unused stuff with your stockpile of finish.
One last thought ... you can also apply a spit coat of shellac over the uncured tung oil. This will seal the oil (and smell) until it cures, and makes a decent bond with any varnish (poly or otherwise) or top coat.
Here's another alternative... if you're going to top coat with poly anyway, then why not use a Sam Maloof finish and try a 50/50 mix of tung oil and oil-based poly varnish? Apply it as you would the tung oil ... first coat thinned 50% with thinner ... just wipe it on (and wipe the excess off). Repeat in 24 hours, and repeat THAT as necessary. After about 3 to 5 coats, you'll start to building a finish. You can then apply your poly straight until you build the finish you're looking for.
best regards, -Michael
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BlueDude wrote:

Just a thought, you may just want to use WaterLox Original Sealer. Tung Oil base and provides a quick and very good finish. Check this link for further information. http://www.waterlox.com/product.cfm?productid=5
George
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On Wednesday, December 8, 2004 at 10:58:59 PM UTC-5, G Yoder wrote:

Waterlox is an excellent product and well worth the $ You can also thin it with naptha and use japan drier as previously mentioned. rick B.
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One thing that will work is to use a large cardboard box and cut a round hole in it and stick a "hair dryer" in it and dry it this way. You would have to check it to make sure it doesn't get too hot and burn anything.... Could use it in or out of the house. I have used this method and it works pretty well.... just be careful and don't use a heat gun but use a cheap hair dryer. -Just an Idea.

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On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 21:19:12 -0700, buck wrote:

Don't try it with shellac, though. You get little hard bubbles all over your finish. damhikt
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On Monday, December 6, 2004 at 1:30:47 PM UTC-5, BlueDude wrote:

Yes blue Dude not under 60 deg F.whatever it takes. I assume You are NOT using water based Poly, which is not great over tung oil. Water based is not very compatible with Oils, even Oil solvent based stains. If You are NOT using a Spray Bomb of poly, thin Tung Oil and Poly or Varnish with naptha rather than Paint thinner, it evaps and dries faster. Also add Japan dryer available at most True value and Paint Stores to Tung Oil and Poly or Varnish, for fast curing times. If You are using solvent based Poly and Tung Oil about 1 teaspoon per Quart. *** Don't add it into the quart. That is just a proportion as in 1/8 teaspoon per 1/8 quart. ***Only mix what you are going to use on one application. Otherwise your Poly will gel and become unusable in 12 -24 hours. Heat lamps also work well but not too close keep at least 4 feet away well focused from above if possible. Keep a close watch sometimes it can create bubble. blisters. So only 1/2- 1 hour at a time with 15 minite breaks in between. The sun can also be Your friend on a dry day. Also give Your piece the same time and breaks as with the heat lamp. I am generally not in favor of blow dryers other than to crackle a finish. I hope this has been helpful.
One last thing my dad taught me "Don't hurry unless You want to do it over". May the grain be with You rick B.
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On Sunday, May 20, 2018 at 7:34:33 PM UTC-4, Rick the antique guy wrote:

Rick,
I doubt Blue Dude is hurrying. His post is from 14 years ago. ;-)
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On Sunday, May 20, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Hey I better learn how to navigate better and Check the dates Huh! rick B
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On 5/21/2018 7:31 AM, Rick the antique guy wrote:

LOL, Unfortunately that information is not always obvious and if you are like me you may not want to go to the trouble to determine the age of the post every time. Fortunately as you become more accustomed to the regulars here you will learn to be a little more cautious before giving a long answer. A short answer is OK, if that person is still around he will respond and then you can feel confident that he or she is still among the living and might appreciate a detailed answer. ;!)
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On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 10:18:30 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

Even though GG prominently shows the dates, I can typically spot an out-dated thread before I even open it. When I see an unfamiliar Subject Line and notice that the thread contains 10, 20, sometimes 30 posts, that's usually a big hint. I check the wRec fairly often, so it's rare that a thread gets to10, 20, (never) 30 posts before I've looked at it at least once.
I'm not sure if that works with other Usenet readers, but it's a clear sign of an old thread when using GG.
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On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 11:04:16 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

This is all good information Folks. I Joined this site : to learn from You and to share my learnigs. Wood working Soup = planting /harvesting - to Nuts= the finished product. All parts are neccecary to the whole. Much respect to You-all. rick B.
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