Does any of you know of a jig I can use to cleanly trim the bottoms off
several interior doors? They are custom made, hardwood, and weigh a ton
each. The builders cut the tolerances too close; they sagged and no
longer clear the floor. The tools I have available are hand planes, a
hand planer, and a router.
I live in Costa Rica so I would have to fabricate the jig myself.
Depends how much end grain you are going to need to chop. A big-assed
router with the right cutter, run against a straight edge clamped to
the door would be the fastest if there is much tough end-grain
Think the screw trick might help? It's where a sagging door is fixed by
removing one of the top hinge screws and installing a long screw that
goes fully into the jack stud. It works wonderfully on prefab doors,
but may not work on a custom door like yours.
On Thursday, August 7, 2014 10:38:37 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrot
I would certainly try this first. If they worked correctly and had the rig
ht tolerances and reveals at one time, then they were simply hung wrong. I
have hung a lot of solid wood doors as well as over sized doors. 4" hinges
, an extra hinge and plenty of shims and attachments will handle any door.
If you go the screw route, choose a screw that is nearest to the center of
the jamb to minimize deflection. Find a long screw, with a head large enou
gh to just sit flush with the hinge. Here's a great trick I use to keep fr
om splitting the jamb when you tighten down the screw: drill out the screw
hole in the jamb wide enough to let the screw body slip through without hit
ting the sides of jamb. When the head makes contact with the hinge, it will
spread the load across the hinge leaf and prevent splitting of the jamb.
If you have a lot to lift, then do this with a couple of screws on the jamb
, and take up a little bit at a time with each screw until you get the door
where you want it. A heavy door might pull out or strip one screw, but no
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