the blade and the fence

[bent]

when setting up a fence on a 10" TS what is going on to make the ripped piece what it ends up measuring? Sometimes having one end .027", .017" or .007" different from the other on a 24"x8" rip can be a bummer.

-The blade may wobble a bit. I know you can measure this. maybe adjust it. not for me, yet, and don't care about furry now, just final dim. question.

-The blade may not be aligned "straight ahead". I currently ain't gonna measure and adjust my direct drive.

The fence may be out of line w/ theoretical parallel to blade. In my case a $300 cast Al TS, the fence locks hard, is pretty solid/perpendicular for my needs, and can be pushed when snug or tapped when tight at the far side. It can be systematically held when locking the push lever-lock down & gives it a consistent alignment each time - it is good enough for me. It may or may not really be good. But when I want to be sure I put a straightedge & piece of wood across the front of the cast Al table edge, and tap/push the fence into what looks like right. But I dunno if its the blade after.

actually I haven't systematically checked any of the above.

I am equally curious, though, because I do end up w/ pieces I want to be a=|a|! that aren't, and I don't like to sand them there.

If the blade where an infinitely small beam of vertical light, the fence could be at any angle, and the piece would be the same at each end. I want to know what's going on w/r/t the fence &/or blade so I know how to get a straight edge, regardless of what's going on. Any pointers?

[BobS]

For the most part you've answered your own questions as to why you're having a problem and you know what the fix is but you don't want to do it. So why would we want to provide a long drawn out response telling you what you already know but don't want to do?

Bob S.

[Woodchuck34]

Sounds like you need a dial indcator and a flat piece of wood. I agree with Bob, sounds like you already know what the possible causes are, just need the time to fix them.

Here's a good resource:

[C&S]

So you do consecutive rips and there is up to a .02" difference.

That's a pretty small number. Very reasonable performance for an unalligned low-end saw.

Or that could *all* be attributed to a not perfectly straight edge against the fence.

Did you joint that stock?

-Steve

[Swingman]

Every time I see it I keep thinking that the subject would be a great name for a woodworker's pub:

"The Blade and Fence".

;)

[Jay Pique]

I used to drink excessive amounts of extraordinary beer at a place called L'Atelier in Brussels. (It's The Workshop, in French.)

JP

[bent]

In the early days of stick and string. I don't know what anybody thinks.

[bent]

x=.9repeated

10x=9.9repeated 10x-1x=9.9repeated-.9repeated 9x=9 x=1

[bent]

I just post questions b/c I like to hear myself type.

[bent]

and as for you, all beer is extraordinary

[bent]

I prefer mine slightly fruity.

[bent]

with lots of blood

[bent]

those nails are for the o/ side of the house

[bent]

look at me Leon, postmaster general

[bent]

I mean, all in all, can I even try, i.e move the back of the fence, or is it something else, which I may not want to bother with. Can it be overcome w/ knowledge? I am not talking about a specific piece, or a specific un-parallelness, just a general rip. I'm not gonna go into depth here.