when setting up a fence on a 10" TS what is going on to make the ripped piece what it ends up measuring? Sometimes having one end .027", .017" or .007" different from the other on a 24"x8" rip can be a bummer.
-The blade may wobble a bit. I know you can measure this. maybe adjust it. not for me, yet, and don't care about furry now, just final dim. question. -The blade may not be aligned "straight ahead". I currently ain't gonna measure and adjust my direct drive.
The fence may be out of line w/ theoretical parallel to blade. In my case a $300 cast Al TS, the fence locks hard, is pretty solid/perpendicular for my needs, and can be pushed when snug or tapped when tight at the far side. It can be systematically held when locking the push lever-lock down & gives it a consistent alignment each time - it is good enough for me. It may or may not really be good. But when I want to be sure I put a straightedge & piece of wood across the front of the cast Al table edge, and tap/push the fence into what looks like right. But I dunno if its the blade after.
actually I haven't systematically checked any of the above.
I am equally curious, though, because I do end up w/ pieces I want to be a=|a|! that aren't, and I don't like to sand them there.
If the blade where an infinitely small beam of vertical light, the fence could be at any angle, and the piece would be the same at each end. I want to know what's going on w/r/t the fence &/or blade so I know how to get a straight edge, regardless of what's going on. Any pointers?