Tearout drilling shell pin holes with a shelving jig

| I'm using a shelving jig, like the one in the link below, to drill | holes for some adjustable shelves. | However, I'm getting some tearout on almost all the holes.

| Has anyone else experienced this? | If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it.

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

With the spur point bits I always get some tearout. I get better results with spiral bits which are designed for drilling steel, and the best results with real auger bits, Jennings pattern or the more common kind with one cutter only.

Have you checked to see if the bit is sharp? I can pretty much guarantee that it's not.

Brand new.

Just bought the 1/4" bit since I purchased a 5mm one my mistake a while ago, but, got the same results with it.

I'll try swapping the bit in the jig with a new brad point bit I have. Just may need to find an extra hand first, as it's spring loaded. ;)

I'll try some tape as well..

ThankX All, Ron

||| Has anyone else experienced this? ||| If so, how have you reduced or eliminated it. || || 1/4" spiral upcut carbide bit in a plunge router (first choice); || and 1/4" carbide lipped brad point bit in a DP (second choice) | | I'll try swapping the bit in the jig with a new brad point bit I | have. Just may need to find an extra hand first, as it's spring | loaded. ;) | | I'll try some tape as well..

Ron...

Brad points come in flavors and _lipped_ brad point bits are noticably better at preventing tear out because the sharp "lip" slices the wood fibers at the circumference of the hole before the stock-removing portion even touches the wood. The result is a particularly clean-edged hole.

See

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

I use the a 1/4 brad point bit from lee valley and have perfectly clean holes in birch plywood. The bit has the spurs as described above and they are sharp as a razor.

BTW, I just use a piece of pegboard as my jig instead of the plexiglass Rockler rig.

Mitch