Hello Looking for advise. I posted here a while ago about a wobble in the
blade on my tablesaw. I bought a new blade , but no different. Below are
emails I traded with Ridgid. Do you think this could be the case? Start with
the bottom email from me 1st.
Thanks for any feedback. Chris
A lot of the blades on the market these days have laser cuts to aid in
balance and cooling, so the wobble appearance you are seeing is normal, and
the service centers determination that the arbor is not the cause is
somewhat confirmed by your visual verification of an appeared wobble on slow
down. A blade with laser cuts trues up at full RPM, but appears to have a
wobble upon start up and slow down.
The burning you are experiencing is possibly due to a needed adjustment.
With the blade elevated all the way up, take and measure from the edge of
the miter slot in the table over to a tooth at the front of the blade. Then
measure to a tooth at the rear of the blade. You possibly will find a
difference in the measurement.
Now measure from the same tooth at the front of the blade, mark it with a
marker and rotate it to the rear position. If the measurement is not the
same front and back to the same tooth, the blade carriage/cradle needs to be
adjusted (see manual) to bring the face of the blade into square with the
Let me know what you find.
One World Technologies, Inc.
From: Chris Fitzpatrick [mailto: email@example.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RGDChris Fitzpatrick:RE: Table Saw
Thanks for your prompt response. I am not at home now, so I will have to get
back to you with the model # of the saw. The blade is not the original, as I
said I bought a new blade when I realized I had a problem, I'll be happy to
tell you what that is too. You should be able to trust your service center I
agree, but it's not a perfect world and things happen. I had not even
mentioned it, but the top of the saw is a mess now, I don't now where they
had it or what they had on it but I will have a big job cleaning the cast
iron top. I am certain the wobble is NOT the blade. This wobble is not
noticeable when the saw is running full speed, at least not to me. As the
saw coasts to a stop you can see what it wobble. I don't have an Inca tool
for measuring the blade distance as it turns, but when I place a piece a
wood against the blade and rotate it by hand, I would say there is about 1/8
th of a difference from one side to another. I tried to figure out why I was
having problems with my saw, so I consulted other woodworkers to see if my
experience was normal. I now believe it's not. You must have someone who
could look at the saw for me. I will be happy to pay for their time if I'm
wrong, but I truly believe I'm not. I really want to continue to use it, and
if I was a contractor ripping rough lumber maybe I could, but cutting oak,
maple etc is just way to difficult. I read of other people cutting these
woods easily without burning. A blade should not wobble as it moves. A
tolerance a a few hundredths of an inch is unavoidable, but not an 1/8.
Far too long and disjointed to go through the entirety but...
Any chance the arbor isn't turned all the way to the plate or the blade
hole isn't completely reamed? Ran into the latter w/ an Incra blade
(from the Orange Box place) that was apparently slightly under
5/8"--wouldn't <quite> pull up on the shaft of my old Powermatic 66--in
30 years, only blade that ever happened with so am pretty sure can't
blame it on the saw... :)
I seem to have seen something wrt to Ridgid that there were a few models
w/ a groove on the arbor that allowed a blade to drop into...Ridgid will
replace that--seems like I saw that in recent FWW comments page.
If there's 1/8" runout on a blade turning it by hand it shouldn't be at
all difficult to detect where it's coming from w/ only a modicum of
inspection and measurement. If, otoh there's no perceptible runout at
speed (as I infer from a later point in the quick scan) then it doesn't
seem there's a problem of such a large magnitude...
Sure. It could be.
No one can know if the arbor has run-out without measuring it.
Either trust them and accept that the problem is in the blade, or have it
checked by someone capable of checking it.
Chris, something is way off - either in Home depot response or in your
assessment of the problem.
I had some early experience chasing alignment problems with my table
saw and learned a lot. I'd be happy to share with you what I know. It
would be more efficient in email or on the phone. I was so successful
in documenting the problem that Jet replaced my whole saw and set it up
for me at no charge.
Contact me by direct email. I'll be happy to call and talk it over with
My email address is wrobertdavis AT yahoo DOT com.
Sorry to hear of your problems.
If the saw is not under warranty, see if you can find a reputable
shop in your area that will work on it. Have them check it out and
give you an estimate.
If it is still under warranty you may want to do the same thing.
Ask what they will charge to diagnose the problem. If it's affordable
enough, have them give you a written report. If they do find a
problem you can present this info to Rigid for the warranty work.
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