I recently bought a Stanley #151 spoke shave, but it is missing the
blade and the cap iron. Anyone have suggestions for finding
replacements? (An unscrupulous eBayer sold it as being in "excellent
condition"; photo was poor and I didn't think to ask about all the
parts being there![&@#%&!] I'm in negotiations, but in case I choose
to keep it I'd like to fix it.)
firstname.lastname@example.org (Dan Cullimore) wrote in
www.supertool.com, everything Stanley,
and lots of everything else.
I've worked with both of these folks. They both have excellent
Have fun with the shave!
no affiliation, etc.....
email@example.com (Dan Cullimore) wrote in message
You might want to try calling Lori in Parts at Stanley Works at
800-262-2161. (I don't know if that number is still current, but it's
the last one I've got.) She tends to go above-and-beyond in getting
parts to needy galoots.
On 22 Jun 2004 21:54:00 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Dan Cullimore) wrote:
Since you need a blade anyway, you might give some thought to replacing with a Hock
blade. If you don't want to do that, I may have
a stock Stanley blade still laying around from when I put in the Hock. If you go with
the Hock, be aware that it is thicker than the
stock blade and may require a little filing on the bed to make room for the extra
thickness. That is not all bad since most of those
shaves could use a little smoothing and flattening on the bed anyway.
If you want me to check around for that extra blade drop me an email. The reply-to
address is good.
Wichita, KS USA
On 22 Jun 2004 21:54:00 -0700, email@example.com (Dan Cullimore)
A #151 is rubbish anyway, As described in Fine Woodworking a while
back, the blades won't hold an edge and the cap iron isn't accurate
enough to hold it down well. Brian Boggs described how to improve the
mouth and bedding with epoxy, then make a brass cap iron.
But this is clearly the seller's fault, so have them take it back and
give you a full refund. Mis-descriptions are one thing, but half of it
missing is quite another.
Thanks, Joe. That issue is still available from Taunton as a "back issue". Got one on
its way to my mailbox. That's probably faster
(and considering fuel prices, probably about as cheap) than me fighting downtown
traffic to get to the library. Besides, some of the
other articles look interesting, also.
Wichita, KS USA
Andy: Could you identify the issue, (or especially anything about
tuning up this "rubbish")? I'd like to read the piece. I'm
considering Tom's suggestion about a Hock blade, but I'd like to get
(or make) a cap iron.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Dan Cullimore) wrote in message
The #151 just isn't a high quality piece. The main problem is poor fit
between the mouth and cap iron, so there's a lack of rigidity in
holding the iron (do shaves have blades or irons ?) and that leads to
chatter. I've never seen the point in the knuckle-ripper screws
either. I adjust them by laying them face down on a sheet or two of
paper and gauging depth by finger pressure on the back of the iron.
The irons are also poor. A new Hock is a good idea here (or they're
not a bad place to learn blade making and heat treatment)
There are several things to do with a #151:
- Throw it away. Like many people, I've collected loads of this
pattern but never use them. I much prefer the #63 / #64 Stanley
spokeshaves (flat and curved base). These are smaller (sometimes
described as the "child's model") but they also have a simpler design
that's less affected by lack of rigidity. I also like wooden
spokeshaves, because of the different geometry, and this includes the
modern Lee Valley version. I've also got an old #53 - don't know much
about these, haven't really used it yet - but it looks promising.
- Get a decent one. The things are only a few bucks on eBay. It's
really just not worth chasing after fixing a bad one. I also have
examples with the commonplace broken handles. Although I have welded
them to repair them, this is definitely as cast-iron welding practice,
not as an economically sensible repair. I just want to improve my
skills for fixing all those #10s 8-)
- Fix it. The Brian Boggs' piece made me laugh - he basically throws
away everything except the handle and the clamp screw, and he reworks
the handles pretty extensively. I'm sure it's a good tool when he's
done, but it surely has to be easier to get a decent #151 pattern one
from Lee Valley.
Making a cap iron is very simple metalworking. The article described
using a woodworking bandsaw for cutting out brass. Personally I'd not
do that - hacksawing by hand is less work than cleaning brass chips
out of my woodworking kit.
The only complex part was using epoxy to build up the bed of the main
body part. Those who shoot target rifles will be familiar with this
It may be rubbish, but there's been a lot of chairs made using them (and
blue handled Marples chisels too).
Just keep your tools sharp and work the wood.
FWIW, I'd send the junk back to the ebay seller and buy a complete spoke
The #53 is a decent shave. It's got the adjustable mouth
(toe-piece, really), so it can be set for fine work. It was my first
"favorite" shave (before I made a couple of Guntershaves and got my
hands on the two Lee Valley shaves).
Yep. They've already done all the work, plus you get a nice beefy
iron. They also provide you with shims for closing up the mouth.
Personally, if I had it to do over again, I'd buy the LV low-angle
and #151 and pass on the other metal shaves.
Lowell: Why I won't send it back: I didn't pay much for it; I don't
trust the seller for the refund ("once burned..."), and especially not
the full shipping (which was more than the tool!); I like a challenge,
and Stanley is sending the parts as I type (Conan is right about that
Lori--she IS good). (The seller did offer a refund, but I'm still PO'd
by the way she set the auction. I won't return it, but will be honest
in my feedback. I've said my piece to the seller.)
Andy: Thanks for the useful critique, and the heads up about the FWW
issue. Having never used a spoke shave I'll just have to see about
how much rubbish I have when/if I get it working.
Joe: Thanks for the citation info.
Tom: Thanks for the generous offer and other info.
All: I really appreciate the critical and experienced perspectives on
what shaves are worth having and why. I've thought of making my own,
and will probably do so in the next few weeks, but thought it would be
good to try a ready-made first, thus the eBay bid; I was surprised I
won. I have also thought of making my own blade(s), but don't quite
have the shop space or time just yet. I'm also more interested in
building a boat.
I still think the best deal for a 'new spokeshave user' is to get one (or
more) from Lee Valley. No fiddling. Just clean off the protective goop,
hone the blade, and go. Oh, and you can trust the seller.
Unless what you really want to do is restore an old tool...
I agree that the LV spkeshaves are good things. I own the Low Angle, and
the pair of wooden handled jewels that Robin introduced last winter. They
were also on the benches at the College of the Redwoods, when we visited
the shop in February, for the winter student show. 'I' like them, but I am
in NO WAY an expert in things Neander. A wanna-be neophyte, as it were.
My question was, perhaps unclear. If you were to recommend a 'starter
shave' of the LV group, what would it be, and why?
BTW, your plans for a spokeshave are squirreled away on my hard drive
somewhere, for a future winter evenings' project. You can always use one
more good one, right?
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