With those dimensions, drilling a 1/4" (or whatever size you actually want, since you say "no greater than") hole in a solid aluminum rod would be the direct route, for 1" length....
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13 years ago
Spacers, tubing with very thick walls?
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13 years ago
Seamless steel is not actually drawn at all--it's spun between two rollers and pressed over a mandrel, with the opening in the center actually resulting from the rolling process and the mandrel being there to provide a smooth inner surface with consistent (more or less) diameter.
Seamless aluminum tubing may be extruded or rolled.
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13 years ago
I once made 30 or so "round nuts" from 1" lengths of 3/4" steel rod, drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts.
It was a long process considering everything was done in a DIY shop using benchtop tools (miter saw and drill press) and hand tapping.
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13 years ago
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For skaters, maybe...I knew what the common app is but couldn't have told what the dimensions actually are. Turns out they're 22ODx8ID (mm) nominal...
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13 years ago
I think you're speaking of the Mannesmann process, which is fairly recent. But even there, they pierce the tube before the cavity opens up. The conventional process, dating back to the 1920s, starts with actual cone-piercing.
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13 years ago
Aha! Here's a very succinct description of the Mannesmann process:
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they work the steel with rollers until the core is about to rupture from overworking, but then they run the bar over a cone pierce before it actually opens up.
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13 years ago
My next-door neighbor has an old ShopSmith, but getting that going would be more trouble than it's worth. Seems to me that such simple machined parts is a good use for the Internet, like the previously mentioned website.
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13 years ago
Shopsmiths aren't really rigid enough to use as a metal lathe. I know because I've tried. When we need simple machined parts for special projects we simply machine them.
jsw
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13 years ago
I used to work in a TV facility. The guy who ran the set shop and a shop smith. They spent probably 75% as much on that thing as they would've spent on separate power tools. They guy spent probably 75% of his time changing the thing around to its different configurations.
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13 years ago
Doubt seriously you'll find anything w/ the right OD that's thick-walled enough to give the small ID.
You could buy 22mm stock and bore it in many materials including at least some nonmetallics from McMaster Carr or a local (well-supplied) ironmonger if you have one. It's close (but just under 7/8"); that opens up even more possibilities if that's "close enough".
Something w/ a >1/4" (actually almost 5/16") wall thickness just isn't going to be a stock part.
Using the Shopsmith as a centering drill press might be doable; chuck up a short section. I forget whether they've got an option for a open-center lathe chuck or not. Not trying to turn on it, it would likely be good enough for centering unless need extreme precision.
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13 years ago
I don't know; I had an uncle (shortly after WWII) who started a interior decorating Armstrong dealership and cabinet shop who did a tremendous amount of work with one for quite a number of years (altho did have a separate tablesaw so didn't share time w/ the SS for that function). He seemed pretty adept/quick w/ it to me; of course I was fairly young kid back then... :)
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13 years ago
It may verry well be a common piece of hardware, so is a #8 screw. Do you know the thread and root diameter of that?
If you want credable suggestions try not to make it hard for some one to help.
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13 years ago
My father and I made a lot of kitchen cabinet doors, wall paneling and T&G flooring on one. The quill feed made setting tenon width easy and the extra table on the end helped support long stiles. It came with the shaper attachment, a decent set of molding cutters and the square morticing drill. They aren't the most rigid of tools, mostly due to the table support rods, but they are BIG, lots of capacity, with the ability to drill lengthwise into the ends of 4"x4"x8' posts or make the hinge and lock cuts in the edge of a door.
They force you to plan well, like completing all the sawing before setting up the drill to mortice the stiles for the rails and muntins.
jsw
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13 years ago
"FNCLA-V8-D22-L64.0-VKC-HKC" aluminum, 8mm inner diameter and 22 mm outer diameter (the dimensions of a 608 bearing), 64 mm length
Apparently the VKC-HKC checkboxes make it more precise.
FWIW. I am planning to stick slices of the machined aluminum tube in place of 608 wheel bearings, then stick a rod through them and glue them to the rod, so I can use any skate or kick-scooter wheel as a drive wheel. And naturally use 608 bearings for the fork to hold the rod/wheel against the ground.
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13 years ago
Yeah, seamless tube is "drawn over mandrel" of necessity but, drawn over mandrel is not necessarily seamless tube or pipe.
If you are in this racket it helps to know the ASTM specs!
Wolfgang
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"Drawn" is more likely to be extruded over a mandrel.
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13 years ago
Got it, looks good. Hopefully useful in my current project.