Somebody remind me

[HeyBub]

Of the technique for boring equally-spaced holes in boards that will be the sides of a bookshelf, for the little posts that hold up the shelves.

I'll be using a drill press.

Thanks.

[Lee Michaels]

Simplest, fastest, cheapest method is to just use some pegboard. Cut it to size, clamp it to the board and drill away. Just make sure that the distance from the edge is the same front and back.

Most folks I know who do this use some kind of router template. These are available from almost any kind of woodworkers store.

I have just laid out the holes on the board and marked them. I use something to "counterpunch" a depression or drill a tiny hole first. This helps "grab" the drill when lining up the stock under the drill in a drill press.

I suppose it just depends on how many holes you have to drill and how much time and money you want to put into it. I have seen custom drill templates made out of aluminum for this purpose. Just remember any kind of template can get sloppy real fast if the drill takes any material away from the guide hole. Which is why most folks prefer a router for this kind of thing.

[SonomaProducts.com]

They sell templates that are made to work with self centering drills, a drill bit in a sliding spring loaded cylinder. It has a built in depth stop. Wit the template you can do this with a hand drill pretty fast.

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------- Life is too short to waste it.

$25 you will ever invest.

Lew

[-MIKE-]

Someday they will make those bits so they don't clog every 4th hole. :-)

[Bill]

On a sort-of similar project, I made my own template out of 3/4" scrap stuff. I clamped it to the work and drilled through the same-size holes I drilled in it. If your "template" has a square end, it seems like it would work pretty well for drilling holes in a row along evenly spaced lines. It will help avoid tear-out too.

Bill

[Swingman]

+10

[Han]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:4ed81b81$0$8602 $c3e8da3$ [e-mail]:

Indeed. Clamp the jig securely or else ... DAMHIKT

[Mike O.]

We drilled a small hole at each end for a 4d nail to hold it in place.

Mike

[Larry Jaques]

Drill one hole, peg it, move to the other end, drill and peg, then finish the pattern.

-- Intuition isn't the enemy, but the ally, of reason. -- John Kord Lagemann

[-MIKE-]

Clamp? Why? The index pin holds it in the last hole drilled and drilling takes only one hand. I hold it with the other hand, just like the picture in the link.

Of course, unclogging that bit takes both hands. :-)

[-MIKE-]

Why don't you guys just hold it in place like in the picture?

[Leon]

Can you say Tee Dee Us? Unless you just need some DP time, avoid it. Too darn slow and you don't need "PERFECT" 90 degree holes. Spacing is important. I use what Lew is suggesting but you can get away with a brad point bit, depth stop collar, and pegboard.

[Leon]

I never have clamped my jig, I use a a shelf hook in a previously drilled hole to hold it in place.

[HeyBub]

[Slaps forehead] Pegboard. Of course. Thanks for reminding me.

[WW]

Mike.... Thats the way to go. I have used one for a couple years. Will never part with it. WW

>

[-MIKE-]

I have one.... two, no wait, three... and they all clog every few holes to the point where the spring-bushing sticks in the depressed position, so you have to stop and hold the housing while you spin the bit, dislodging the clogged debris. It's very, very f-n annoying and frustrating.

I'm not saying I'd go back to using no guide, but it sure would be nice if they'd modify the bit to expel the debris better. If there's a better

3rd party bit that fit the guide, I'm all ears.

[Jack]

Simply mark the shelf sides where you want the pins, transfer the marks with a square to the other side of the shelf. Set your fence on the DP to the distance you want from the edge, put a mark on the DP fence and align the marks on the fence to the mark on the shelf sides and drill away. The pins will be perfect every time and easier than fussing around with peg board, jigs and all that rot.