If you use M & T joints to join the slats to the rails, this will only pose
a problem when attaching the rail/slat subassembly to the posts.
That's why I said earlier to leave yourself some _vertical_ wiggle room in
the mortises on the post (those mortises for the rail tenons attaching the
rails to the post) to allow for any "taper error" on the rails.
Taper of one or both rails should pose NO problem whatsoever with making the
inside edges of the rails parallel, as long as you've properly batch cut
slats, and batch cut tenons, as previously described.
If you have a bow in one or both rails, then you've got a problem ... but
one generally easily solved with edge joining the opposing edges which abut
Got ya. Ok. But if one of the rails has to move up a tad on one end to
make up for any taper error, than the joint for that rail to post will not
be 90 degrees. Correct?
This is all worst case scenario for me. I'm not sure if taper will be a
problem at all. I didn't start thinking about this potential problem until
recently (after starting).
Yep. I don't think I have a bow. All edges have been jointed.
Typically the side rail is "L" shaped with the bottom horizontal piece
facing towards the middle of the bed. The slats set on that horizontal
piece and typically are only laying on the rail and not attached.
Tue, Feb 6, 2007, 4:22pm @. (Stoutman) doth need to get back to sleep:
I am working on my foot/head board rails.<snip>
I've read the other posts too. Check this. A pichoor is worth a
bunch o' words. http://www.medievalwood.org/charles/bed.html
Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will
acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.
- Johann Von Schiller
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