Ok, Doug, what if the joists are 16 or 24 OC?
Wouldn't that be less than 4.5 ft?
Thus the ability to run the NM above the joist so long as it was stapled
I could have bought 3-ga copper in a NM but my source couldn't get me
40ft at less than the 2-ga copper NM. They were out of the 3-ga and
there new shippment would cost me more per foot than the 2 ga.
Of course they had 3-ga in stock but not 40 continuous feet of it.
So I opted to go with the 2 ga at just over a $1.00 foot less.
Plenty large enough for a 100 amp sub.
Doesn't matter *what* the joist spacing is. The Code does not permit stapling
NM cable smaller than 6-2 or 8-3 to the bottom of joists. Period. There are no
Securing the cable *more* often than the Code requires is not a problem.
Securing it to the bottom of joists *is* a problem.
*Above* the joist? How do you do that in a basement? Above the joist is the
subfloor. Did you mean below the joist? Can't do that. The Code absolutely
prohibits stapling NM cable smaller than 6-2 or 8-3 to the bottom of joists.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Here is the problem we are having...your thinking of a solid 2x floor
joist. But the way I read OP as having truss style floor joists. So if
that is what he has than you could wire above the bottom of the joist.
There's nothing whatever in the original post that even suggests that might be
the case. I think "the problem we are having" is that, as shown by some of
your other comments, you were thinking he was wiring in an attic.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Boy, I went back and re-read Howard Swope's original post. I think
you're making quite a stretch to interpret it that way. When you hear
hoofbeats, you should be thinking of horses, not zebras. Unless, of
course, you're on the African plain.
One way to settle this aspect of the controversy. Howard? Do you have
solid floor joists over your shop area or some sort of open truss system?
"...there is a bunch of NM cable that runs over some ceiling beams. It
isn't secured and kind of weaves in and out of each other. ..."
I've not been participating in the thread but that was my reaction when
I read that in the initial posting was the original wiring was just
laying through the floor trusses overhead in the basement. Pretty
common practice, ime...
Certainly while it isn't unequivocal, would seem to make more sense than
that there could be a bunch of wire on top of solid joists in a basement
where one would presume there's flooring on the top side of them.
I'm guessing (but admittedly it is a guess) that the "beams" is a
misnomer for lack of knowledge/experience to automatically call them
IMO, ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
Surely it's a possibility, but so could it be that the "kind of weaves
in and out of each other" be referring to thecables themselves with,
perhaps, only one stapled in place. Who knows? Howard does! Howard!
Come back here please<g>
After this, he'd be crazy to come back, ever...
I'd presume they probably do inter-twine and probably aren't stapled at
all but just laying on the bottom chord and maybe going through a brace
member now and then. Looks like h, but is very common in tract houses
and doesn't violate code -- code doesn't address neatness itself much...
Thanks for the information (everyone has been very helpful). In regards to
Square D, I don't remember the specifics of what I read, but it was a
posting someplace. My recollection was only that this one gentlement had
difficulties with Square D and was recommending moving away from their
stuff. No one else seems to have responded in the negative, so I might go
with it just to stay consistent with the current setup.
Howard Swope wrote:
> Thanks for the information (everyone has been very helpful). In
> Square D, I don't remember the specifics of what I read, but it was a
> posting someplace. My recollection was only that this one
> difficulties with Square D and was recommending moving away from their
> stuff. No one else seems to have responded in the negative, so I
> with it just to stay consistent with the current setup.
The only problem with Square Duck is they use bastard size c'bkrs.
If you use their panel, then you must use their c'bkrs.
Other manufacturers use a more common 1" & 1/2" c'bkrs that can often
be used interchangeably.
I haven't read all the other responses in detail, so this may already
have been addressed:
Make sure the lights in your shop are on a dedicated circuit. You
don't want any of your power equipment or anything (or anybody!) in
the finished part of the basement tripping the circuit that controls
the lights while you're in the shop.
Is the furnace for the house or just the shop? If it for the house,
have you figured out how to protect it from workshop dust and fumes?
If it's a forced air system you could end up spreading dust and fumes
from the shop throughout the house.
I see 2 sump holes. Do you need to be concerned with huge swings in
humidity when there's water in the sumps vs. dry times? (I don't have
sumps, so I don't even know it that's a concern.)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.