How big a dado stack can you get on the Sawstop? Would it be the same
as the Professional? I am putting a 3/4 dado on my Delta contractor...
and was reminded of the problem, I use my stabilizer rather than the
arbor washer, because with the arbor washer I can't get enough threads.
I am actually short of 3/4 by 1/32 and won't be putting the remaining
But I am curious, it's still something I want to swap out... I haven't
lost the value... I know I will have to build a new ramp to get it down
here. With a come along or winch to somehow get it down the stairs.
I want to say 15/16" and it must be an 8" set. I would imagine the pro
would use the same.
IIRC Sawstop recommends not using the arbor washer beyond a certain
stacked thickness, just use the nut.
About the only issue with not using the outer washer is that when
clamping the nut against the outer blade I get a bit of blade twist and
the teeth will touch an inner chipper tooth. The outer washer helps to
prevent this from happening. This is only an issue when tightening the
nut. So you stick a small scrap between the teeth and you are good to
go during the tightening process.
With the Freud Dial-a-Width Dado set you don't use an arbor washer for
FWIW, I will never willingly go back to using a shimmed dado stack. My
old Amana shimmed dado stack has been collecting dust for going on ten
And how wide is that on the arbor?
Isn't it bigger than a 3/4" stack?
BTW I need to replace the bottom of my garage door. Both sides have
rotted. What was the name of the lightweight waterproof mdf?
I might make the panels out of that, since I have no clue what they
originally had, but it is a manufactured board of some sought.
Temple-Inland's "UtlraStock" "moisture resistant", not proof.
There is also Sierra Pine product called Medite that is similar in
But it is not lightweight.
This might be, I understand, both. But I have not been able to find it
Masonite, or a like product, was commonly used by the fly-by-nighters in
that application at one time.
Thanks, I guess not suitable if just resistant, the originals are raised
panels, but not Masonite, unless Masonite came in a thicker raised
panel. The bottom panels are the one's in trouble, and that occurred
after the bottom board rotted. I know I can make one rather than
replace the whole door. I'll replace the whole thing when others
Maybe a smidge, it is still a stack but the outer adjustable blade
moves/adjusts in and out parallel to the chipper.
The teeth on the outer blade are quite wide so there can be a lot of
overlap with the chippers if adjusted narrow.
And the adjustment dial is do-nut shaped, the arbor nut tightens against
the outer blade vs the adjustment ring. A special socket type wrench is
provided for easier access to the arbor nut.
Not sure about light weight but typically the water resistant" MDF is
green in color. I ask for the green water resistant MDF.
I have actually seen Masonite used in the door panels, that might be
what you have. MDO might be a good choice also if you can get it in the
correct thickness. This material is used by the highway department for
making road signs.
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