I have a 25" drum sander and I've just started a job that is going to leave
me with a lot of edges to sand. Call me picky but even with an 80 tooth
carbide blade I can see small saw marks in the end of the wood that make a
huge difference when stained. All of this wood is being cut with the grain.
Anyway has anyone ever rigged something up to hold board upright on a drum
sander? The only thing I can think of is to tie it to the top somehow.
I'm guessing you don't have a jointer...
I have done this with good results. Rip the board slightly wider
(32nd) than you need then rip again to the finished width. Cutting
such a small amount with only part of the blade gives a much smoother
cut than just one full kerf rip.
How long are the boards?
If they are relatively short you could build a sled. Have a cleat at
the back and a fence on the side that you can clamp against. You
should be able to find a "toggle clamp" that pushes inline that will
work. You should be able to run quite a few boards at once this way.
Or you could just used a hand screw clamp at the front and back of a
group of boards to accomplish the same thing, it would just be fussier
to get them aligned together.
I might post some pictures over at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
The boards are 6"W x 3/4 H x 9' L pine. The 6" top was sanded in the drum
sander, one side with a routered edge was sanded by hand and the other
exposed edge still has saw marks.
Yesterday I purchased a Rigid 10" 80 tooth blade and tried to take 1/32 or
less of of each board, it still left some marks, maybe I'm to picky. The
whoel reason for this thread is because it's my wife job to do the finish
sanding and she's finding it way to much work to use a palm sander to remove
the blade marks and make it ready for sanding. I'll try to post some
pictures in the other group.
A few thoughts:
1) You don't want to be ripping with an 80-tooth blade. Try a rip
blade with 24-30 teeth.
2) Check fence alignment. If the back is closer to the blade, the back
side of the blade could be touching the workpiece. Some folks use a
VERY SLIGHT toe out on the fence to avoid this problem.
3) A blade stabilizer may help if you are getting blade wobble,
particularly if using a thin-kerf blade.
4)I'd second the plane suggestion, but frankly, if you are not used to
reading the grain, sharpening, and setting a plane, this approach will
probably be frustrating. And there is no reason your saw should leave
marks that a palm sander with 180 or 220 grit will not quickly remove.
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
I agree with this. I use a Freud glue line rip blade and the finish it
leaves requires no sanding. A lot of it, though, is technique. Smooth steady
feeding through the saw and the finish is near perfect.
Okay 9' is a little long for a sled :) But you can still clamp a
group of them together. I suggested handscrews for this because the
handles stay inline and if they were to come loose they won't destroy
anything being mostly wood themselves. In case you aren't familiar
with them, a cheap source:
You could clamp 6 of them together with those. But really any clamp
that will fit through the machine will do. The hard part is getting
them all lined up while you are clamping them. Maybe you can get the
wife to help for that part, since it is her job after all ;)
I'm currently using two featherboards, one just before the piece and one
after and I've worked my way from a 28, 40 to 80 tooth blade and can't say
that there has been a huge difference. I'll need to check the toe in/out on
the fence and see if that might be the problem. I may try clamping a bunch
together if all else fails.
I don't own a drum sander hence, I would use what I've got. I'd probably
whip out the No. 7 plane and have at em. I'm not sure how many boards you
have but I would bet they'd be done faster than it's taken to go buy a new
blade, post the question, etc.... A couple of light passes will do the
trick. Otherwise, a block and sand paper would work just fine albeit a
bit longer to work through the various grits. Sorry, I know this wasn't
much help. It's just that the more woodworking I do, I'm finding the
Neander tools to be more efficient for a number of jobs.
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