I doubt you'll scrape off the Boeshield with your fingernail but I try not to drag my fingernails across the top, too. Nah, wood and plastic might push it around some but it's not going to plow through it.
I guess I could put UHMW strips on the bottom but really, the miter gauges do scratch the surface, in multiple places.
You have some remarkable aluminum (or wierd iron), aluminum is much softer than iron. Here's a Moh's scale...
If yu are using Boeshield to protect your TS top you don't have near the rust problem you might think you have. Boeshield absolutely would did not offer enough protection for me when I first used it 15 years ago. TopKote and its successor is the only thing that works for me.
I will say that with enough repeated passes most anything will cause a wear pattern on cast iron. I have those all over the place running parallel to the blade and perpendicular to the blade. Parallel marks from the miter gauges/sleds/wood. Perpendicular marks from the fence support pad that slides across the back of the TS top, that is the low friction plastic stuff. Anyway the wear marks are only visible you certainly can't feel them nor are they more susceptible to rust.
Anodized aluminum (aluminum oxide in a transparent form on the metal surface) is also called corundum. Mohs scale, corundum is #9, and is quite a bit harder than steel (4.5 or so).
And whether it matters or not, most of the equipment we are talking about, that might be scratched, is cast iron, not steel. And cast iron TS top are pretty soft.
what happens to that sled when you start cutting angles it's not going to be great
do tablesaws come with sleds now or is it all diy and aftermarket? are they intended for just 90s? what problem do they solve?
If you look in the right places table saws come with sliding tables. SawStop offers one now.
I considered buying this one, but chose the SawStop.
Rust *is* a problem. I used to have the saw in the garage when I lived in Alabama. I now have a basement but it's still very humid. I keep one of the magnetic covers on the saw, and a beach towel on top of that.
I've been thinking of trying TopKote (or whatever it's called these days) and even bought a can but it doesn't say anything about preventing rust. Did they change the formula? I really don't like Boeshield but I like rust a lot less.
Way back when, when Topcote was originally made by Empire, I bought it to only slick up my TS Top, that is what it was made for. It was great for that but after about 6 months I noticed that I was no longer having an issue with rust. You need to put on a lot the first time, a few coats and the more you use it the better it protects. It is not guaranteed to prevent rust but as a bonus it works better for me than any thing else I have tried.
This place is the leas expensive that I have found for TopCote/GlideCote.
Which angles? Miter or bevel? I've cut both using mine and they are extremely accurate and repeatable. I put a miter gauge on mine with an adjustable stop for repeated cuts.
I guess if there's a problem it's wanting to cut wider boards or longer panels with extreme accuracy and safety. Most miter gauges are not very wide and while you can add a longer fence to them, they are not good for panels because their runners are so short.
They are quick and cheap to make, too, so it's really a no-brainer decision. Once you have one and see how accurate and versatile they are, you wonder why you didn't build it sooner.
I have a sacrificial bottom on mine that repositions to close the gap created by the saw kerf of different blades. This creates a zero-clearance insert affect that eliminates tear-out yielding a very clean cut.
I decided to go with maple. I cut the runners tonight, the rest of the sled will have to wait until tomorrow.
Wow! Free shipping, too. I've seen prices like that but they don't tell you that they charge $15-$20 shipping and handling.
Fortunately they are a local place for me that I have been doing business with for 20+ years. I would suspect their web site not determining a correct shipping price.... Seems if there were free shipping there would not be an input location for destination. This store is top notch with very helpful people and they typically beat the pants off of the competition prices.
Either way the average price, elsewhere, for a can is around $18-19.
I can second Leon's opinion of cabinethardware.com's customer service.
Based on Leon's recommendation, I purchased some drawer slides from them. T he website listed the slides as Full Extension, Soft Close. I ordered four
22" slides and one 12" slide. I found that the 12" slide was not full exten sion. When I called, the CSR did some research and found that the 12" in th at line was indeed *not* Full Extension, nor were 14" of the same model. Ho wever, the same manufacturer had another (more expensive) line of slides an d the 14" in that line was Full Extension. He offered to send me a 14" Full Extension slide, no charge of course, which I accepted.I checked the website a few hours later and it had already been updated to show that the particular 12" and 14" slides in the line that I originally b ought were 3/4 Extension.
It will take a few adjustments to fit the 14" slide in where I was going to put the 12", but it will fit. Overall, I was extremely satisfied with my d ealings with cabinethardware.com's customer service department.
Most all of the people that you deal directly with have been there for years and it is an old family owned business. I really like dealing with Barbara.
Either, don't the cuts fill up with dust and don't they weaken the sled?
This answers my other post. I might try one when I find time
Square or angle cuts are still using the same path, you simply place the work in the sled at an angle. Some sleds have fences that work similar to one found on a miter gauge. These sleds typically do not work on both sides of the blade.
This is an excellent sled. I have had both the left and right side sleds for 15 years.
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