Routing Mortises

It's a LOT easier with a plunge base, especially the way I do it. I use a 3/4" straight bit to cut a slot in some scrap. The scrap is screwed to another scrap at a 90 degree angle, such that when the second scrap is clamped to the side of the board to be mortised, the

I've done a few mortises and stopped dados on the table, though, and it's not my favorite thing to do.

I have made mortises by dropping the board onto the spinning bit (table mounted) with no problems. I also have used this technique successfully to make stopped dadoes. I usually attach a stop block (clamped) at either end of the router table fence to mark the beginning and end of the mortise/stopped dadoe. I also use a spiral upcut (solid carbide) bit in the router. This helps the router bite down on the wood easier.

If you go this "route" (groan), be sure to either (1) use a center- cutting or "plunge" bit, or (2) keep the router in motion as the bit enters the work.

Jim

Lot less scary with a router table, a fence, and some stops.

Cheapest fix would be to replace the router's base with a square plate. "Plunge" by tipping the router in along one of the baseplate edges.