Recently a friend gave me some plans to build a piece of furniture for
him, and I have run into a snag. Now, I'm not an expert woodworker but have
made my share of sawdust in the past and am stumped by this.
The plans call for a 1/2" thick piece of wood (actually 70 of them) with
a 1/4 radius roundover on all edges. The radii need to be full so that each
end (which is 1/2" in width) can fit into a fixture to turn a 7/16" round
end on them (to fit into corresponding holes already drilled). If I cut the
radii on one side, then the bearing has a narrower surface to ride on for
the remaining cuts, resulting in a somewhat lopsided radius. I cannot use a
fence to hold the correct distance as the parts have curves to them that
need to be followed. Any suggestions from the gang here would be MOST
welcome at this point. Thanks in advance!
I wish I had seen those sooner..or at least realized what was to come.
I've already drilled all the holes at the 7/16" required measurement, and
the dowel makers there do not come in that size. Excellent tip for the next
Even after a call to the people who made the plans, their suugestion was
the same as my own-double face tape a template to each piece and rout it
with the standard bit!! Thats a lot of taping and un-taping as I have about
70 pieces to do...thanks for the tip though.
Or if I wasn't picturing things right in my other post, you could use
guide pins. But the pin setup would be different for the inner and
outer curves and it would only work if the curve was a radius, not if it
was elliptical. If it is elliptical, then you could do it with a
pattern and bushing setup.
Except his parts are curved, can't ride on a fence.
I vote for the bullnose bit suggestion...don't much like them because if
the piece moves up/down any it gets messed up but that's about it other
than attaching each of his numerous pieces to a template.
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Use a suitable fence. The standard refs <www.patwarner.com> ought to
One way (for big curved parts) is a "horseshoe" fence. This is a
C-shaped bracket around the cutter, with two projecting fingers that
guide the workpiece.
The better way for this might be a "sunken fence". Fasten a thick
solid false false to your existing fence, then feed it through the
cutter until there's a narrow cutout fitting closely around the
Watch for cutter snatch when working around the ends of these bars.
It's probably best placing a removable pin in the table too, ahead of
the cutter, and using this as a fulcrum to control things.
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