OK, so I finally got around to buying a jointer this past week, and
tried using it for the first time today (the first time I've ever even
been close to a jointer that's on). Once I got the outfeed table
aligned with the cutter blades correctly I thought all I really needed
to do was push the piece of wood across and keep it pushed down on the
outfeed table. Is that not right? I ended up with a curved edge that
looks kind of like a boomerang. I'd sure appreciate any pointers you
all might have. Thanks.
When you say you got the outfeed table aligned with the cutter blades
correctly, I want to confirm you mean you aligned it to be exactly level
with the knives at their highest point of revolution. Assuming that's the
case, the condition of your stock prior to jointing can have an effect on
the outcome. Ideally, from end to end, your stock would be concave, meaning
that when you place the edge on the infeed table, the ends would contact the
table and the middle would not.
Let me add to Todd's comment that when hea says exactly... it really means
exactly. IMO, your tolerance for error is around the thickness of a piece of
paper. It is *the* most fussy setup in my shop.
You are taling multiple light cuts right? 1/32 or less.
Start concave side down, otherwise the workpiece will rock as it is fed. If
you can't start concave side down, make a flat spot in the center of the
piece, by taking a couple light passes just in the middle to remove the hump
Can be really bad technique, or it could be that your table are not flat.
I would suggest getting someone who knows how to use to jointer to try it.
If he has the same problems, then get a book on tuning your jointer.
I was blessed by buying a used jointer that was perfect; tuning it sounds
You problem sounds like the typical convex sweep. If you just hold the
board to the tables, regardless their length, this one doesn't resolve
easily. Go to the concave side - sight the board - and make the first pass
or two at each end, reducing them only before the final pass(es) which make
The convex is done by setting the board over the table with the end up, and
reducing only the middle, but it's a bit less intuitive. Not to mention,
that the concave side is the one with the sapwood you don't want anyway.
In short, sight, plan and proceed, jointing isn't just slapping a board on
the tables, no matter how long the tables may be.
If your knives are just an RCH above the outfeed, they're where you want
If you're jointing both sides to be parallel, joint the concave side, then
straighten the convex side with a pass on the table saw. That should reduce
the error to something a very light pass on the jointer can eliminate.
- Owen -
I had the same problem. I was disheartened, as this was a big expensive
jointer. After almost giving up using it I got a friend, who's a
professional woodworker, to come take a look. I assumed it was my
technique. It took him about 45 minutes to get things adjusted just
right, but since then the machine's been a dream to use. I do not think I
could have gotten it set this well myself.
You need a friend!
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