Toller (in kzSRg.1509$ firstname.lastname@example.org) said:
||| I have built items with cut tolerances of 1/32 of an inch or so.
||| I was never happy with the end product.
|| Is there some place we can see pictures of this precision built
| He never said it was wood. I built a brass cannon once that was
| accurate to a few thousanths.
That's pretty impressive! Dare I ask at what range it was so accurate?
DeSoto, Iowa USA
The precision also depends upon the task. And in some cases, the
precision multiplies. By that I mean that the precision of one item
affects the accuracy of another.
I have a crosscut sled. If I make four cuts on a piece of wood to make
square, a 0.003" error in the fence can cause an error of
0.012" when I am done with the fourth cut.
Right now I am making a 12"x12"x10" box with 1/4" ply, and I'm using a
1/4" box joint on the edges. Inside the box will be a nesting box
Yeah - 0.001" accuracy helps a lot.
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I used to spend my day job making electronic machines for $10k's that
would allow power presses to be adjusted according a simple "traffic
light" setting gauge so any fool could work it. Previously they'd have
had "Old Bob" come and listen to it for a while, then hit it with a
Old Bob was often surprisingly accurate, but these factories had maybe
20 lines running at once and Bob only had the one pair of ears to go
Reminds me a story that an former boss told me. He knew a boiler
inspector that would go around and inspect the boilers of steam
locomotives. This inspector had a 6oz hammer and would tap each of the
rivets that held the boiler together. He would then mark the rivets that
were broken. He was right 100% of the time. My boss and others tried to
figure out what was different between a good and bad rivet using the same
hammer. He never did figure it out.
My infeed & outfeed tables are only about 24" each so the 36" stick
Don't have a copy of White's. Have to check it out next time I'm at
the BORG. How does one arrange the mdf & drywall screws to set up the
Its kinda neat actually. You get three pieces of MDF and put three drywall
screws in each at the same points. You then take two at a time and adjust
the screws so that they meet when the MDF is on its side and the screws are
head to head. When the screws are touching on all three pieces, then they
have to be exactly in line. Obviously that only gives you three points, but
it is enough.
If it doesn't make sense (and my synopsis might not) get the book. It tells
you how to adjust everything. Maybe not to a 10,000th, but close enough.
So what's the contradiction? Woodworking tools work fine at those
looser tolerances, you might easily measure to something far more
precise than that. What's the problem?
There's also the issue that _lots_ of hobby woodworkers (those who
aren't surgeons) have a day job that involves aerospace, toolrooms or
other high-precision metal bashing. The relaxed tolerance of wood in
the evenings is a pleasant contrast to working to sub-thou measurements
all day. When you ask someone like this to measure something though,
they just reach for the familiar tools out of habit and you get an
answer in tenths of a thou.
As to Rojeks, then they're great. I've used them in two different
workshops. Nice machines, well thought out design and easy conversion
between tasks. Good build quality and accuracy.
If I had a chunk of money to buy new, and was limited for space to put
it in, I'd be looking very seriously at a Rojek.
Back to the original question
"So, has anyone actually used this machine; or any other Rojek tool?
Are there any other similar machines made? I would rather have a
smaller 10" saw for instance."
Yes. In alphabetical order so as not to bias anything
Hammer - a slightly less expensive Felder line
Felder - have the unit charges and the paddles ready
cause the price tag will stop your heart
Mini-Max - getting into my price range
Robland - what I actually own - and use
Here's mine - in context
there are yahoo groups for most of the combis
and that'd be a good place to get feedback from
Things you might might want to know
Are you pretty methodical when it comes to woodworking?
If not, any combi may be a problem for you.
will it take a dado blade?
if you cut dadoes and rabbets/rebates on your saw
you'll need fine blade height adjustment. Robland's
X31 combi doesn't have that abiltiy - but there's
an after market bolt on that'll give it to you.
"drop in and they're set" joiner/planer knives or set yourself
(drop in and they're set don't let you move a knife or two
when you ding 'em. Being able to move one a little left
and another a little right offsets the dings so you get back
to smooth surfacing)
bore on the shaper cutter heads 3/4", 1 1/4" Diam or both?
More shapes available for 1 1/4" bore
shaper head tiltable or not? Robland's doesn't tilt
joiner/planer cutter head reversable? This is important.
iBy being able to reverse the direction you can use standard
right hand twist bits - otherwise you have to go with
left hand twist bits - which are harder to find and often
Important: What's the availability of replacement parts
and what's the time delay if the distributor has to order
them from the manufacturer? You can't just go down
to your local tool store and get parts - even in just a week.
(all of these units are made in Europe. If you have to
wait two or three months for a cargo container'w worth
of parts in order to get YOUR parts it could be a problem)
Just some things to consider.
My shop is L shaped. The main room is 9.5' wide; the side room is 7' wide.
I could stick the combination machine in the main room so I have plenty of
room on either side, but little in front or in back; or in the corner so I
have plenty of room in front and to one side, but little the other two
Am I likely to be able to use one of these? Rojek told me their footprint
is 7'x7', but I don't know how much room is necessary to actually use it.
I found an article in FWW that said that the Robland was lightly made and
had poor tolerances. They thought all the others were better. You
apparently like the Robland; have they gotten over their problems?
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