I'm having a bad time with burn marks on some mahogany I'm ripping.
The blade's clean, but possibly dull. I have a new blade ready to use,
but... well, what else can I do to avoid burning?
Also, I'm installing some oak baseboard in a bedroom. I'm thinking of
ripping a 1" high dado and laying in a 1" wide strip of aromatic
cedar, which might make the room smell nicer. I know, cedar's best
used in closets and armoires, but has anyone tried doing this in a
On Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:44:29 -0700 (PDT), BrianSiano
Standard stuff. Put on the new blade. Make sure that it's properly
parallel to the miter slot and that the arbor is clean of junk in case
the blade is wobbling slightly. Add the nitre. Make sure it's exactly
perpendicular to the blade.
Do a test cut with some waste mahogany (if you have some), if not then
some other type of wood, pine will be fine. See if it cuts without
burning. If it does burn, try different feed rates. If that solves the
problem, then you're going to have to try some different feed rates
with the mahogany since it has a different density.
Also, you haven't indicated what type of saw you have or its
horsepower. There's the possibility that your saw might be
underpowered for cutting. You also didn't indicate if this burn
problem is new or has always happened. All these things need to be
High quality Honduras mahogany deserves a high quality blade which you
WON'T find in the bargain bin of your local DIY.
A good 24T ripping blade is at least $50-$60 these days.
I had a Freud that worked well for me.
Make sure that blade is parallel to the miter slots in the saw table.
How large is the motor driving the blade(Should be at least 1-1/2HP)
and what is the estimated RPM of the blade?
Should be in the order of 3,600 RPM maximum, 3,300-3,400 preferred.
While having the blade parallel to the miter slots is obviously a good idea,
irrelevant in the context of ripping. So yes, after you've gone off and
adjusted your blade
so it's perfectly parallel to the miter slots and found that it did nothing to
ripping problems, by all means please do adjust your fence perfectly parallel to
the blade. :-)
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
African Mahogany is Mahogany in name only.
If it's not Honduras Mahogany, it simply isn't Mahogany.
Like the Philippine Mahogany plywood they try to pass off as something
other than the junk it is.
Actually in botanical terms there is a true african mahogany depending
on your specific definition. There are also a few other types sold as
african mahogany that are not of the same family.
Family meliaceae, genus swietinia is the Cuban and Honduran type and
family meliaceae, genus khaya is the african type. So there are true
african mahogany types. Some types that look the same like sapele are
also called\sold as african mahogany but are not botanically in the
I fell in love with African Mohag after seeing Darrel Peart's Greene &
Greene repros and derivations. I took a class from him and worked with
some of it then and it is really nice.
When I do build my dream boat I will likely consider African Mohag
depending on what's available AND after some research to be sure
African has the same properties as it relates to water resistance. I
don't currently have any knowledge if it is considered as good for
marine applications as the classic but it is beautiful stuff.
I'm certain you can build some very nice furniture using African
Take about a glutton for punishment.<G>
Takes a special person to even own and maintain a "woodie"; however,
building one from scratch??????????????????????
I have started some of the research and have some plans pulled from
the Chris Craft Museum of the model I want to build. So I have basic
dimensions and critical cross sections. I do not have any sort of
knowledge of the structural design yet but I figure I can find more
detailed plans of similar boats and develop details for my project.
This is a long-term plan. My brother and I will retire together to
some acreage and one requirement is a boat building dedicated to this
project, in addition to my normal shop space. I love to build
multiples of things because I enjoy the fixtures as much or maybe even
more than the finished article, so a secondary plan is to also sell
completed hulls once I have all the forms and techniques down pat.
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:02:46 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
Oh, sure. African mahogany, 3 hand-smeared coats of RBS, and poly
drizzled over the top. Who could ask for more? <thud>
Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace
will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will
blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,
while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.
-- John Muir
1. Assure fence is parallel to blade.
2. Assure that the edges of the wood riding on the table and against the
fence are perpendicular to each other.
3. Assure the stock isn't bowed.
4. Assure that the kerf isn't closing as you cut.
5. Sharp blade, steady feed (don't pause)
No, but I wouldn't. Eastern red cedar - aromatic cedar - loses its odor
after a while. The smell can be renewed by sanding to a fresh surface or
applying cedar oil. Even if it didn't lose the odor I don't think the
amount you are proposing would do much. If you want the bedroom to smell
good, burn incense or buy the wife/girl friend some expensive perfume. The
latter could have additional benefits :)
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