"B A R R Y" wrote
Probably could stand the sight of all that beautiful wood! LOL
I have seen that sort of thing many times as well. It is like my wife screaming every time she sees Nahm painting a nice wood project.
I've seen this before too. Dark rooms aren't currently fashionable, so folks paint the mahog walls to brighten things up. 99% of the public aren't woodworkers and only see dark walls, not rare mahogany.
scott
Sounds to me that what you have just described is a perfect scenario for = a "French Cleat" and a scribed kick-pad fronting some shims. Of course = one must build the cabinets with a tad more depth than the back would = require so that vagarities in the wall may be circumvented.
Given the nature of the populace today anybody who builds kitchen = cabinetry for the ages is self-delusional.
P D Q
Why do I get the feeling that this is just a cost cutting move on the = part of the builder?
At no time would I condone any scenario wherein the cabinets were = installed before the finish floor. If I were having new flooring laid, = I would also have the cabinets removed and re-installed after the lay.
P D Q
That flower in your garden must be a tree hugger of note.
P D Q
" =A0If the cabinets are sight-built it "
Even worse if built by a blind man
Why do I get the feeling that this is just a cost cutting move on the part of the builder?
At no time would I condone any scenario wherein the cabinets were installed before the finish floor. If I were having new flooring laid, I would also have the cabinets removed and re-installed after the lay.
P D Q
Which begs the question, WHY would you want more expensive and never to be seen flooring to be under your cabinets? It is a cost cutter, one that makes sense. If you have you home recarpeted, do you remove all shoe moldings, base boards, and door sills so that you can put the carpet under them also?
What advantage is there in spending extra money on something that you will never see?
Just for fun, try to find a flooring store that will remove your cabinets before putting down a new floor. You will be lucky if you can find one that will actually remove "and" replace shoe molding.
Do you live in the USA?
I don't agree. Once you go that route, you're locked into the exact placement of those cabinets. What happens if you want to put in new cabinets some time in the future? Unlikely they'd be the same size and shape. You'd be trying to hide areas where you didn't install flooring.
And certainly on a new build, it's much easier to install an entire floor than to take the time to modify and cut flooring to fit around cabinets installed before the flooring. Just doesn't make any sense. Maybe as a contractor, get the job done and get out, possibly. For something I'd build for my own use, certainly not.
While you have valid questions, ther is no problem with putting in a different arrangement of cabinets. You simply patch in the floor if needed. The floor will have a match problem however if you uncover unexposed floor ther is going to present a match problem also.
It is not a good idea to expose a new floor to contractors coming in and out and dragging equipment across the floor. Fitting in a few cabinets is no more bother than going around wall corners, door ways, or sizing to a room, it might add 1% more work but that will be saved in not paying for floring that will not be used.
Just doesn't make any sense. Maybe as a
I suspect you might do it once but the second time around you would most likely do it the less expensive way.
Back in the mid 1990s I redid the flooring and cabinetry in two kitchens. Rooms were stripped bare of all cabinets. I ran the flooring wall to wall. Although in the ceramic tile floor I did use gray tiles when I needed extras under the cabinets. White in the visible area. And grout lines were not finished as much under the cabinets. But the whole floor had the same thickness of tile and cement backboard. The 25 feet of linear cabinets and the 50 square feet of tile under the cabinets at $1 per square foot of tile was not a big deal given the cost of the entire job. $50 extra for tile under the cabinets. Big deal. It made the installation of the cabinets more than $50 easier later on. Extra backer board was required too. Little extra cost too. Also no bid deal. Running from wall to wall was easier than stopping exactly, exactly at the edge of the cabinetry. If I was laying tile in one kitchen a week or two a week the cost would add up more.
Kanukistan.
Yup, I know what you mean. I once had a fellow laying my floor who, = when told it would be nice if he were to start at the feature (Stepped = Archway) and lay to the opposite wall, replied "I am a professional, I = know what I am doing, but out". Kicked his ass off the lot and dot his = boss to supply a new floor guy to fix the mess. 2 days of new guy = swearing about the old guy and floor was looking good. Never let it be = said that pros always know what they are doing.
BTB: I removed all casings, trim, moldings, and base cabinets before the = floor was laid and replaced them afterwards.
That is why DIY any time the job looks like something I can do is my = credo.
P D Q
Doesn't it depend on the situation? Flooring used to be a major expense, and it was something that could be resurfaced/refinished.
Now it seems to be something that is changed like lighting fixtures, whenever a new fad or style comes out, or when the walls are painted.
Seems to me, if someone is putting down linoleum or cardboard "hardwood," they're not the type of person who's going to care about the flooring going under the cabinets... or even dishwasher for that matter.
Depends on the customer, doesn't it? We've all had instances where our trying to convert the customer into someone who respects quality and craftsmanship the way we do, only comes across, to them, as us trying to increase the price of the job.
Back in the mid 1990s I redid the flooring and cabinetry in two kitchens. Rooms were stripped bare of all cabinets. I ran the flooring wall to wall. Although in the ceramic tile floor I did use gray tiles when I needed extras under the cabinets. White in the visible area. And grout lines were not finished as much under the cabinets. But the whole floor had the same thickness of tile and cement backboard. The 25 feet of linear cabinets and the 50 square feet of tile under the cabinets at $1 per square foot of tile was not a big deal given the cost of the entire job. $50 extra for tile under the cabinets. Big deal. It made the installation of the cabinets more than $50 easier later on. Extra backer board was required too. Little extra cost too. Also no bid deal. Running from wall to wall was easier than stopping exactly, exactly at the edge of the cabinetry. If I was laying tile in one kitchen a week or two a week the cost would add up more.
Seems like a "PAY ME NOW OR PAY ME LATER" situation. I agree with your = thoughts. Only way to do this is to explain to the end-user that the = little extra in time and materials will save time and exasperation later = on and not force them into a set footprint.
As far a colour differences between what's under the counter and what's = out in the open - a little time and no one will be able to see the = difference. Besides one never goes smaller.
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snipped-for-privacy@35g2000pry.googlegroups.com...
our thoughts. =A0Only way to do this is to explain to the end-user that the= little extra in time and materials will save time and exasperation later o= n and not force them into a set footprint.
ut in the open - a little time and no one will be able to see the differenc= e. =A0Besides one never goes smaller.
In my case it was white ceramic tile in the visible area. And gray tile under some of the cabinet. Not just a little color difference. Two different colors. I presume the white tile was out of stock when I went to get more and the gray was there. I did put the gray tiles in the corner under the lazy susan cabinet. Pretty sure the corner will always have cabinets over it.
messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@35g2000pry.googlegroups.= com...
Actually, I pulled the carpets, put them in the garage under my cars, = and laid hardwood. Yes, I lifted all the trim (that cheap shit that = looks like mahogany) and replaced it with oak. I had carpet laid in my = basement and put the moldings on afterwards.
I know, and that is all thatr matters.
Russell, not to get sweaty, just added a few comments to earlier stuff = to see if OEquotefix really works. Beyond that, with tile, one does = what one must. I have the same problem in my basement where SWMBO wants = to pull some of the carpet and install more tile beside the tile that is = already there. Ever try to match 20 year old last of the run tile?
That story will have to remain for another time.
P D Q
I've never seen a cabinet replacement job that didn't include a new floor, with the exception of antique wood floors which were going to be refinished. That's like buying new cabinets and keeping the old counter tops.
Most folks remodel _kitchens_, not cabinets.
Maybe, maybe not... It depends on the layout, materials, etc...
A large vinyl floor would require a long, straight seam that might end up in an inopportune place. Fitted around cabinetry, the seams are much easier to hide.
Ok, let's forget the cheap alternatives for a moment. A vinyl floor IMHO, is relatively cheap in materials, easy to cut and easy to install. Let's go with tiling, slate tiling for example. Costs more, is more labour intensive to cut and one would not be as prone to replace it on a whim like you might do with vinyl.
What's the consensus there? Do the whole floor after the cabinets are removed or just tile up to existing cabinets? The disadvantage to tiling while the cabinets are in place is that there's a whole lot more fitting and cutting, alterations in the future might mean that slate is not produced anymore, but money saved on material costs. Or, take out the cabinets, do the whole floor, spend more on materials, but have an easier install?
The major problem with re-flooring a kitchen with a thick(er) material around existing cabinets is the flipping dishwasher. DAMHIKT
This is something to consider however I have redone kitchens and have seen kitchens with added tile to the existing cabinets. 90% of the time the dishwasher comes out with out problems. You typically accomplish this by screwing in the front adjustment feet all the way and pulling it out. Once the front is out the back comes out pretty easily. Tall tiles or thick wood flooring may make this a bit harder but new home construction basically goes with the cabinets, then floor/counter top, then the appliances. Typically the appliances go in last so that they don't mysteriously disappear.
I agree. The situation I had was moving into a house that had the kitchen floor redone with tile. The dishwasher needed to be replaced when the issue came up. Even with the front legs screwed all the way up, it was necessary to loosen the screws from under the cabinet fronts and pry the counter top loose. This wasn't easy as the counter tops had also been set in a silicone glue in addition to the screws. The alternative would have been removing the tiles directly in front of the dishwasher, but they were a 10" variety that I could find no replacements for and I knew I would break them in removal. It all worked out in the end, but my vocabulary was somewhat increased.
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