I would like to replace the motor with a large, more powerful unit. I think the present motor is BAD as it slows dow in 1/2" plywood!
I am confused by all the options found when I search for motors. I've seen "compressor duty" motors and "utility" motors and "farm equipment" motors and different frame types, etc.
I know I can buy a motor for it from DELTA, but wiould prefer to spend the $$ on HP insted of brand names.
Hoping to find someone on this list who has done this (replaced Delta
14" BS Motor with a more powerful unit) and ca share thier experiences and suggestions - maybe URLs, too.
Is the motor getting enough voltage? Are you using an extension cord that is too long, too small a gauge, or both? I suggest you put a voltmeter on the motor input and then cut the ply and see what happens to the voltage. The fix could be simpler and cheaper than you suspect. Art
Hey Hoosier, I have replaced the 1/2 hp motor on my '90s Delta 14 bandsaw with a Farm Duty 1&1/2 hp Baldor motor. Not thinking thoroughly ahead when I bought it, I was disappointed that the box on the motor that accepts the line cord prevented me from opening the lower door to change blades. I remedied this by slicing the door in half with a plasma cutter and welding a metal strip with studs so I could remove and reattach the lower piece when changing blades. I also replaced the drive belt with a link belt. Now back to your situation. In addition to what Artemus mentioned, are you sure the motor is slowing down or could it be belt slippage? Check your belt tension and if it is sloppy tighten it, or replace it with a link belt and then make it tight. One great benefit of the link belt is that you can set your motor to its proper length for tensioning without having the belt in place, thus you can really get both pulleys lined up perfectly. Then you can adjust your link belt's length according to the manufactures directions (printed on the packaging) and have a really tight and properly aligned drive system. By the way, I got my Baldor through an Ebay seller, Electric Motor Site. Oh, and check to make certain the the blade is not slipping on the tires too. Dirty, dusty tires can cause blade slippage. Hope your problem does not cost too much money to remedy. Marc
New or older unit? Makes a difference because the design shaft RPM changed in about 2002. Doubled.
Open or enclosed stand? makes a difference because of the mounting clearances to not obstruct door opening, cap cover locations, etc.. Also, particularly if open, you should make sure that any ODP motor you are considering has a dust proof centrifugal switch.
Notice WW supply had some Baldor replacements, lower than Delta service price, but still not exactly cheap.
Does the present motor have a tag with frame size? What is the shaft size? If you have, say a 48 frame, you want a 48 frame to replace it. You want the same rpm. Totally enclosed is better than open for this application.
Before spending the money on a new motor, be sure the bearings for the wheels are good, they check the motor as it could be those bearings going bad also, sapping a lot of power. Look for a motor shop in your area and take the old one to them to check out. It may save you a bundle.
Hello Frank, Regarding your comment about the shaft RPM changing, was that accomplished by changing pulley sizes only? Motro RPM stays the same, I think. Somewhere, either in conversation or in a magazine/catalogue I thought DELTA only changed pulley size to change blade speed and kept the 1725 motor. Let me know if I am wrong about this. Thanks, =20 Marc
No, they changed to a 3450 rpm, 1.5 HP motor and changed the pulley size and guard in order to keep the blade surface FPM the same as it was with a wheel RPM of about 800 IIRC. Anything faster and the tires will lift.
The change was made with a number of other improvements (quick tension change, table angle presets, effective dust collection), that would become "free" as a result of changing to the motor, adding purchasing volume to a motor that already was lower cost (because of volume) and used for another application. Those dynamics, however, have changed, so I suspect cost and price are up as a result.
What about those cast alloy sheaves Delta put in place of the original, balanced steel sheave in their redesign?
It seems that is one "re-modification" one might want to consider, presented this opportunity ... perhaps replacing them with a good balanced steel Browning sheave, for probably less than $50.
It seems this would be a worthwhile "bang for the buck" as these particular machines have been noted to for their vibration issues. (and add a link belt, for sure!)
Just wondering what your obviously informed take on the possible benefits of replacing the sheave is ... staying with the intended size/shaft size obviously.
No doubt the heavier and more balanced the sheave is the smoother the function, particularly since it is running at a higher RPM. Additionally, one of the things that was lost with the higher HP, but lower cost motor was the resilient mount. Also adds to noise level a bit, I think.
Early post change models had a stand top plate that was prone to oilcan, later models had a reinforcing angle. Easy to add angle, doesn't have to be welded, just bolted below the top plate.
Link belt a good option, however, on units that have the proper ground edge belt that is warmed up enough to loose its set, no difference in the vibration (much testing confirms). Issue is most cuts are made with a cold, set, belt, so never gets to the point where it smooths out before it is turned off.
Most problems reported in the field would have been addressed at the factory as was the normal process, however, this unit was transferred just after the redesign, and no true Delta people left to deal with the issues. Such is life.
Keep in mind that the earlier comments I made are about the domestic units. There are two models imported from China, and I'm not familiar with the motor characteristics for those models.
I did a similar upgrade to my 14in jet it is and older model (delta blue green in color) and open base and the motor was along side the saw. I looked for a cheap motor on ebay I thought as long as the # matched there would't be a problem and got a cheap 1.5 motor from china trying to save a $. Waited 2 months to install it and it was NG. Wasn't worth trying to ship back or raise a stink over . I chalked it up to a $$ lesson because I did know better. I went out and bought a baldor that matched the orignal frame/ rotation/rpm specs but this one was 115/220 2hp Farm Duty 1725rpm motor. I had to make a new enclosed stand(3/4ply and oak), buy a new pully to accommodate the larger shaft and put a link belt on it. A little work but well worth it. I even ran a 220 line to the saw and changed the voltage on the motor.
1) Make sure the wire powering the motor is at least 12AWG, 10 is better.
2) Convert present motor to 240V service.
2) Replace the blade with a quality blade designed for the task.
3) Check saw bearings. Sealed ball bearings are usually greased for life and should be no problem; however, journal bearings should probably be lubed if they have oil cups. If not get some oil into them by whatever means possible.
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If the above doesn't solve you problem, get out your piggy bank.
The recent ramp up in copper prices will be reflected in motor prices.
You can use either 1725 or 3450, it's simply a sheave matching operation to get desired blade speed.
Stick with a 48/56 frame, that will give you a 5/8 shaft and will fit existing mounting feet but may extend aft more than the present motor.
Buy a TEFC, cap start, cap run motor with built in overload which will work fine for a woodworking tool since starting torque is usually low.
Couple of years ago, a 2HP unit as described above was about $300.
I'm running 10AWG from breaker to the saw - I thought of that when it was on a 12AWG or 14AWG lighting circuit. I run my SEARS Table Saw on this 10AWG outlet w/o issues.
I'm pretty sure the bet is tight and the blades' not slipping (tension is tight) - but I ill check that tomorrow.
The issue metioned with the Baldor motor is one I hope to avoid by determining (if I can) the FRAME TYPE used as the standard motor [anyone know?] and other details [anyone know the correct RPM?] - I am assuming a TECA for dusty locations, but not sure what the frame type and RPM are - or if there are any other things I need to specify when looking for a replacement
Part of this is a desire to up the HP.
I read that Timberwolf blades make a difference, too.
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