Well, to be accurate epoxy wasn't all that common back in the
50's and 60's when polyester was widely used, before the problems
with blistering became widely recognized.
If you built a boat with polyester in this century you made a
mistake (albeit without bad consequences, apparently). Epoxy
has been the norm since the 80's; when I started boatbuilding
in the 90's it was accepted that epoxy was the only way to go.
(the arguement then became whether to use West System, System
Three, or Mas epoxy).
Absolutely, as will most any product. If something requires a patch, it
has arguably started down that road. ;)
The ultimate, usually most desirable remedy is replacement with new.
The question: do you want to spend $X to patch something you can replace
for $X +/-; knowing that any "patch" will likely require some future
maintenance regardless of the product used to patch?
Recently finished an interior remodel. Previous inhabitant had been
confined to a wheel chair. There was not a door jamb in the house that
was not scarred, scraped, dinged and gouged by being rammed repeatedly
with a wheelchair.
Nothing structural, all cosmetic ... just like the OP's post in this
thread, before a trolling idiot introduced a rabbit trail, which we all
followed like sheeple. ;)
The client originally wanted to replace all door jambs, but given the
replacement cost (demo, cost of material, trim out labor, prime and
paint); versus patching options; the client decided to patch.
The painter, as I knew he would, wanted to use Bondo for the patching.
I was fine with that for this job, knowing from past experience that its
ubiquitous availability, price, and the time involved from application
to ready-to-paint, would give the client the bang for the buck he was
looking for in his particular situation.
And, also confident in knowing that this particular painter's success is
due in large part to his believe that preparation is the key to an
excellent patch/paint job, often in spite of the product being used.
On Monday, May 16, 2016 at 12:43:17 PM UTC-5, Mr. 2 Cents wrote:
I wouldn't want to guess just how stupid you could be as that well probably
has no bottom. But how you could compare filling a few cracks and low spo
ts to someone that attempted to literally replace entire rotted areas and r
ebuild rotted boards is beyond me.
So you found a video by some other nitwit (no doubt of your same intellectu
al caliber) that had no idea what he was looking at and decided to compare
it to a dissimilar situation. The Bondo was not only the wrong stuff, but
it had no reinforcement nor was it anchored properly.
Anyway... Greg when I try to read the whole post and match the repair to th
e capability of the repair guy. You have a some good thoughts, so this is
only my personal way of handling the repairs you are talking about.
Sand the whole door to make sure there is no other loose paint, no scale, n
o damage you didn't see (if it cracks where you are describing, there is mo
vement in the joints so what you see won't be all of it until you have fini
shed the prep)and determine if there needs to be actual repair work instead
of just fill and paint.
The danger of putting new paint over old paint is that the paint holds well
enough to hang onto the surface, but the new paint can loosen the previous
coats, even if it is oil based.
That's why I power wash the exterior surfaces, then prep. If the paint is
going to come off it will come off when sprayed. Then sand. Then examine
So for an exterior wood door (I am keeping in mind that you are talking abo
ut an handyman doing these repairs) I wash and sand, and if there are repai
rs needed I do them at that time. If the rails and stiles have separated, t
hen I scrape out the rotten or soft wood on the joints, fill them with wood
glue (I usually open them a bit more) and clamp. Then I use an 7" gutter
screw (or something similar from Fastenal) driven at a 45 degree angle from
the stile into the rail. Try to find a screw that is threaded the entire
length if you can. These aren't, but work fine.
If I find the screws with a head less than 1/2" diameter, I use a washer, t
oo. Counter sink the head of the screw, and fill with acrylic caulk after
the screw is in place. Do both sides and as well as the top and bottom of
the door. I like gutter screws because they come with some kind of epoxy b
ased powder coat on them so they won't rust over the long haul.
Now the door is more stabilized. BTW, most doors fail because of wood move
ment, and that is usually caused by the painters not painting the door top
and bottom. They wick water and start to fail immediately due to the absor
ption of water causing swelling/movement.
Rock Hard is great for filling holes, some deep scratches, leveling out a s
urface, etc. It is not good for small cracks as it needs to have more mass
to hold together than you can get with a small crack. I usually do a two
step process on a door that I am picturing as you described.
Fill all the holes and dents with Rock Hard. I use an 1/8" to 1/4" bit to
drill into the center of the dents and holes to give the Rock Hard better b
ite. With a bunch of holes in a damaged area, you can lay that stuff on pr
etty thick and sand it smooth. Be aware that Rock Hard has almost not weat
her resistance; if you start the job using that product plan on working it
to finish. You can also get it pretty thin too, (think feathered edges) as
long as you paint as soon as possible.
For cracks along the joints I use a good acrylic caulk. For cracks in face
s, if they are fine cracks I use the same thing. I apply it as close as po
ssible with a tool, then smooth it a bit with a wet paper towel.
I use caulk because it penetrates the rough surface of the joints and seals
them against further deterioration. As noted above, most likely these cra
cks will come back, but if the raw edges are sealed up with caulk it will s
low down the process quite a bit. I use caulk on the joinery because doors
always flex at the joints. Maybe not a lot, but always, and with all that
I have repaired that is almost always "the scene of the crime". Rock Hard
will break apart after a while due to this flexing and it offers no protec
tion to the surface it is attached to. It isn't made to do that; it is a f
Prime and paint!
Now... if the handyman of choice can't do that, skip the repairs, and apply
Rock Hard and caulk, then paint.
On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 11:08:38 AM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
I am not sure I would trust a post from Karl at this point either unless he attaches a link to an unrelated video uploaded by an idiot shill to further their own agenda. I just wouldn't make sense.
Of course if Karl tells me he is now a member of The Flat Earth Society and he includes a video on making raspberry scones as his proof, I'll take it!
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