Great post. All true; Bondo has its place, although not literally as a scu lpting material as seen in the video. I have seen it used extensively as a filler before painting where it worked well. But like any product, extens ive repairs require some familiarity with the product to get maximum perfor mance. The lack of surface prep was really obvious in the video when they peeled back the hunks of Bondo and you could see the rotted wood the covere d. You could also see further deferred maintenance on all the surfaces as well. It looked like an abandoned warehouse to me, so no telling when the work was actually done on those windows, or if it was just another idiot's repair.
Because he found he could sell it as such because people were using their auto-body filler on wood. Doesn;t change the fact it's not really designed for wood.
You have to admit though that a boat built that way with epoxy, or even vinyl-ester? resin stands up better than poyester resin ( Like the old Uniroyal Vibrin)
Absolutely, as will most any product. If something requires a patch, it has arguably started down that road. ;)
The ultimate, usually most desirable remedy is replacement with new.
The question: do you want to spend $X to patch something you can replace for $X +/-; knowing that any "patch" will likely require some future maintenance regardless of the product used to patch?
Recently finished an interior remodel. Previous inhabitant had been confined to a wheel chair. There was not a door jamb in the house that was not scarred, scraped, dinged and gouged by being rammed repeatedly with a wheelchair.
Nothing structural, all cosmetic ... just like the OP's post in this thread, before a trolling idiot introduced a rabbit trail, which we all followed like sheeple. ;)
The client originally wanted to replace all door jambs, but given the replacement cost (demo, cost of material, trim out labor, prime and paint); versus patching options; the client decided to patch.
The painter, as I knew he would, wanted to use Bondo for the patching.
I was fine with that for this job, knowing from past experience that its ubiquitous availability, price, and the time involved from application to ready-to-paint, would give the client the bang for the buck he was looking for in his particular situation.
And, also confident in knowing that this particular painter's success is due in large part to his believe that preparation is the key to an excellent patch/paint job, often in spite of the product being used.
the product to get maximum performance. The lack of surface prep was reall y obvious in the video when they peeled back the hunks of Bondo and you cou ld see the rotted wood the covered. You could also see further deferred ma intenance on all the surfaces as well. It looked like an abandoned warehou se to me, so no telling when the work was actually done on those windows, o r if it was just another idiot's repair.
Note that as pointed out numerous times in this thread that lack of prepara tion is a great deal of the problem in the video.
What filler is completely waterproof? Solid epoxy finishes are for some ti me, but they break down eventually.
In context of this post, water proof fillers for wood(none of which I know actually are)the fillers are nearly irrelevant except for their ability to hold a sealer and retain elasticity.
In the specific case of this thread, it was stipulated that the door (and i ts fillers) would be painted, so whether or not the filler provides a super ior water proofing on its own as a stand alone product is irrelevant.
H2O is often referred to as the universal solvent.
Just about anything will dissolve into water with time, now the fact is that it can take eons for some materials to dissolve at normal temps. But on geological time frames it is.
Polyester resin doesn't pass water. Talc - the primary other - component is about the least permeable mineral around; plus, it is encapsulated in the resin.
And youn make it just a lirttle too simple. The wood expands and contracts and the paint cracks at the joint. Now the polyester filler is exposed to water at the joint. it soaks up water and expands, coming loose from the wood. It dries and shrinks, leavibg a gap. it gets wet again abd the wood gets wet - and soon you have the mess that was under that bondo - even if there was half decent prep done.
Just like using polyester body filler on a car without sealing the repair welds - or worse yet using it to fill rustouts. It won't last - period. Seal it with an epoxy based fiberglass patch and it will last almost forever. Polyester resin and fibergkass is a lot better than that talc filled body-filler crap, but even that breaks down.(and sometimes pretty quickly)
If you are ask> Since polyester filler is not waterproof the wood can rot under the
It was his information. I have read enough on the subject of polyester resins (not the topic at hand, BTW) to not speak without practical, hands on experience.
Sigh... Note that NOWHERE in any post that I have made in this thread did I advocate, advise, suggest, or imply that using resin to seal a crack in the joinery of a door was a viable solution. You are arguing with yourself at this point.
Yet that was where the OPs problem started. The paint cracked where 2 pieces of wood met, and the paint chipped off back from the crack.
No indication from the OP that there was any wood damage. A bit of high quality caulk in the seam would work much better than Bondo for his repair. It is flexible.
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