Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm
considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project
will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
I asked the same question of the owner at R&D Bandsaw (Tufftooth)just
The blade you are thinking of seems pretty close to the following link.
So I guess it's a good choice.
The Bandsaw I use is the 1433FX - Industrial
So you can judge the similarity - I have the riser block and use a 105"
All his bandsaw advice has panned out so far.
Big Rob wrote:
I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the yahoo
minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The lenox I
believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I use
Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use thin
kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem with the
thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of how your
technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV.
They're kind of a chatty group. It's a good reference though. I downloaded
a users manual for the mm16 which is useful. I highly recommend the manual
as the one that comes with the machine is not real useful.
I ordered a 1" 4tpi Timberwolf for my mm16. Basically it sucked for 10" white
oak. I have the Olson that came with the saw still to try but I may splurge
on the woodslicer or lennox when I have more resawing to do.
When I got my bandsaw (LT16SEC), I thought that you needed
a wide blade for resawing. Since this saw would take a 1 1/4"
blade I got one. What a PITA. Ever uncoiled a 130" 1 1/4"
blade? Never did try to recoil it. Was a PITA to get on the
bandsaw and tensioning it wasn't fun either. That much blade
in the cut means more friction. Wider ain't always better,
despite that car ad.
Then I sat in on a demonstration by Michael Fortune, a
Canadian furntiure maker / teacher who does a lot of
laminated pieces that involve lots of resawing. "Don't
spend a lot of money on one blade. Get 5, 1/2". 3 TPI, hook
toothed blades for about the same price as one "good blade"
When a blade starts getting dull change it. When you
get down to 2 new blades order 5 more. Sharp is what's
important, not price."
And it doesn't hurt to having the saw set up well, proper
tension, good guides set right AND a fence that can be
set to the blade's drift/lead angle.
(when the Timberwolf blades I've got starts getting dull . . .)
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