I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the
blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small on my
Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm.
I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown to like
the narrow kerf.
What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a
number of places to shop.
Well, I'm no expert, so may reasons may seem a little dumb...
1) They seem to cut faster and cleaner.
2) Less sawdust.
3) More slices out of a 2 by. Not that white pine is expensive, but
finding good white pine to rip into 1/2" slices is hard. I've gone to
2x6's because it seems like they make them out of better stock.
My guess is the difference in price between an 8" and a 10" blade
gets lost in the wash so might want to take another look at
Talk to the professor (Leon) about thin kerf blades.
I want nothing to do with them but that's me.
My choice for your application would be a 10", 24T, carbide
tooth, Freud rip blade.
I got a lot of use from mine.
BTW, a little tip. If you want to increase your yield, start with
the widest stock available.
I'd start with 2x12 and rip it into two equal pieces, then do the
As part of building boat mold, ripped 2" x 12" x 24 ft timbers
into 1-1/2" x 5/8" x 24 ft strips to form battens.
Estimate that at least a mile of rip cuts a dumpster full of saw
dust were formed that Saturday.
Started with a B&D, 10" Diablo but quickly switched to the Freud.
Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in
price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn:
40T is too many for RIP.
see if they have around 20 teeth in rip config... not (atb)..
Something like http://www.toolbarn.com/freud-lu87r008.html
with 22t flat grind w a 20degree hook... seems about right for ripping.
Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades.
For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial.
And I've got some limited understanding of hook, which I never knew
existed. Apparently too much hook is not good on a Radial arm, although
I don't quite understand why. Roughly I think it is because it pulls the
wood up on a radial arm. I've found myself always using a finger board
when I rip so this may be the "counter" for the blade I use.
I see that recommended cutting thickness varies, and it is different for
this combination blade for crosscut and for rip. I don't understand
this, but I think it has to do with the number of teeth, that certainly
affects the minimum thickness, and I suppose the maximum also.
I'm leaning toward the LU83R00 partly because I do cross cut also, and
perhaps because it looks like a bad boy!
Thanks to all.
It doesn't pull the wood up, but tends to make the motor want to climb
toward the operator more than a negative hook. This all assumes you are
using the correct RAS procedure and pulling the motor through the cut
and not pushing the motor back to cut as with a SCMS.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
On 12/3/2013 10:47 PM, email@example.com wrote:> On Tue, 03 Dec 2013
>> On 12/3/2013 8:06 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
>>>> I rip a lot of 2 by stock (white pine) and I'd like to upsize the
>>>> blade. I like my Diablo 40 tooth 7 1/4" but it is a hair too small
>>>> Sears "cut your fingers off" radial arm.
>>>> I've got a variety of old carbides in 8" and 10", but I've grown
>>>> the narrow kerf.
>>>> What's decent on a budget? I'm in a big city, Atlanta, so I have a
>>>> number of places to s
>>> Freud LU83R008 works very well on a RAS. Seems to have gone up in
>>> price lately, but still available for about $40 at Tool Barn:
>> Well. I've learned a lot about saw blades.
>> For one thing, everyone recommended some variety of Freud Iindustrial.
> Well, you did say that you were on a budget. Otherwise the
> recommendation would probably be Forrest or Ridge. ;-)
Yes, I figured I was getting the best of the "bottom end". It's good
enough for me.
I'd rather spend the blade money toward a change of equipment. I'm
thinking of a mid range table saw and a compound sliding miter saw.
Theoretically the radial arm can do compound angled cuts, but the set up
is difficult and takes a lot of tweaking, at least it does on my stump
I built my euro style (not face frame) kitchen cabinets with a battery
operated 5" skilsaw and a straightedge.
It's not thin kerf, but I really like the Freud Glue Line rip blade. I
got mine at Woodcraft in Alpharetta but I think all four WW stores in
the area carry them. I don't trust thin kerf but I'm not using it on
a stump maker, either. ;-)
Ditto. Had to rip 24lf of 3" oak squares last week and a Freud Glue Line
Rip cut it like buttah. As always, choosing the right tool for the job is
not only easier, faster and more efficient, but generally much safer.
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