With great difficulty, or before the ceiling joists are in place. When I built
such a unit, I had extra space top and bottom, but still built it in place,
instead of in the shop.
"It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended from
H. L. Mencken
Classic story of building a boat in the garage and then finding out it's too
wide to get out the door.
Mencken?? You a Mencken fan??
"The effort to reconcile science and religion is almost always
made, not by theologians, but by scientists unable to shake off altogether
the piety absorbed with their mothers' milk."
A little poetic license. I'd akshully try to stand up a 8'10" book case in a
room with slightly higher than 9' ceilings. I guess I was asking if anyone
had any special tips (tiplets, Thanks Keith) for building stuff larger than
commonly available stock.
You build it 8'8ish" tall, put it on a 3" tall base (which is 4" less
deep for a bit of a kick), and use crown moulding on the top to hide
that last inch of room. Rounding the top back edge of the sides is
another trick for the deeper cabinets.
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
http://www.diversify.com Wondrous Website Design
I actually asked essentially this exact question about a year ago and
got a number of responses. Now, I have the time and have done the
research to actually build the bookshelves in my den with 9' ceilings.
Assuming you're assembling the shelves and installing them assembled,
you need to have at least 2" clearance (i.e. the shelves need to be at
least 2" lower than the ceiling) in order to tip them into place. In
addition you typically set the shelves on leveled "runners" (e.g. 2x4)
that you've attached to the floor. Hence, the shelves will be 3 or more
inches off the floor so you're really looking at something like 8' 6"
high shelves. You cover gap at the floor with baseboard molding and the
gap at the top with crown molding.
Standard hardwood plywood is 8'x4'. In my neck of the woods, I can also
get 10'x4' hardwood plywood, but I can only purchase full stacks rather
than small lots. My solution is to build two carcasses, one that will
run to 32" high and the second that will attach to the top of the lower
carcass and run to the ceiling (or close to it). This will do a couple
of things: It will let me use 8' ply (which even if I could get 10', is
significantly cheaper), it will be easier to handle and install and the
double thickness at 32" will tie into a corner desktop.
A great reference book I found is "Trim Carpentry and Built-Ins" by
Clayton DeKorne. It's in the Taunton "Build Like a Pro" series. It has
been a huge help. Good luck.
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