I did this one years ago.
Buy a set of metal shelves about 84"-90" H as wide as practical
WW Grainger sell cardboard shelf boxes in bundles of 25.
You simply fold them to form a box.
They come in 2"-4"-6" widths and fit a standard 12" deep shelf.
A couple of Sharpies for labeling and you are good to go.
Everything on that set of shelves MUST be in a shelf box.
If in doubt, refer to RULE 1.
Simple. It's like the Law of Conservation of Energy. It's Called
Conservation of Space. Either throw out the tools that don't fit, or
Build A Bigger Shop.
I'd build a bigger shop, myself. If you decide to throw stuff away,
post descriptions here first. If the tools are any good, I bet some of
us would pay shipping to "dispose" of them for you.
When making wall cabinets, plain doors waste a lot of space. If you make the
doors 3-6" deep, you can
fit loads of nail and screw (and other small stuff) storage in the doors.
Fit bearing hinges to take the weight, and some kind of ledge to hold the doors
square when closed.
- When making wall cabinets, plain doors waste a lot of space.
I know it's just semantics, but that statement doesn't really make
sense, at least to me. While building small-item storage into the
doors is a neat idea, you haven't really saved any space have you?
The front of your 3-6" deep doors are just as thick as your plain
doors, so the 3-6" had to be subtracted from or added to the orignal
depth of the cabinet, right?
Granted, having the small items stored in the door makes them easily
accessible and probably more organized, so I do like the idea.
"DerbyDad03" wrote: (clip)While building small-item storage into the doors
is a neat idea, you haven't really saved any space have you? (clip)
Would you be happier if he had said he was creating more "frontage?" :-)
In my own case I made the cabinet doors 6 inches deep in addition to the cabinet
12 inches deep. The
dimensions came from the sizes of some scrap wood I had. Yeah it sticks out more
into the workshop,
but its over a kitchen-style workbench against the wall so it doesn't really
consume any usable space
The doors were fairly rigid, but still sag under the weight, so I added a couple
of ledgers at the
bottom, that support the doors when they are closed.
Ball bearing hinges were the best part of the design though. I would definately
Acro Bins and wall plates. You can get these for cheap from Global
Industrial Supply. The wall plates are simple perforated steel sheets
that the bins hang from. You can make a lot of storage area in a small
space. Anything you can put on the wall is a space saving deal.
Our work shop is a 16' x 26' partition of another area. In it, we have a
12' x 16' caged area that has a milling machine, a 8' Lista cabinet with
overhead cabinets, 2 - 3'w x 8' roll-around stand-up parts cabinets, a
5'w roll around Lista parts cabinet, a stationary Lista mill tooling
cabinet, a 3' bolt/nut/screw cabinet, a laptop roll around cart, and
every free space of wall to a height of 7' has the acro bins and wall
plates with all of the pneumatic fittings and other odds and ends, even
the area between the big Lista bench top and the upper cabinets is full
of mounted acro bins. Outside of the caged area is where we do machine
building, and this area currently has a new full-sized 3 axis CNC VMC we
are automating, a 6 axis robot, a 6' lista work bench, a ladder/work
platform storage area, an automatic parts washer and 5 roll-away tool
boxes. And we still have room to work. Even the caged wall is used for
storage, we attached extrusion to it, and use it to store completed sub-
assemblies, hoses, cables, tools, paperwork racks, aluminum stock, etc.
Keeping the floor clean and uncluttered is a key. Having hose and power
reels mounted high on the wall/ceiling is important for uncluttering.
You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
I had an old rack for 9 track computer tapes sitting around, so I
made a rolling base for it, then I covered one side with 1/4" hardboard,
and the Harbor Freight version of those bins. That left the other side
open, which was filled with the old metal framed AkroMills 50 drawer
parts cabinets. Small parts on one side, bigger stuff on the other! Not
only can it turn, but it can be rolled almost anywhere in the shop to
keep things close at hand.
It is similar to the open rack shown here:
I have made storage cabinets out of old relay racks with locking
doors, as well. I store the expensive tools and test equipment in
them. They are all on heavy casters, and can be moved, if needed.
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
The mobile bases should be storage cabinets for heavy stuff so the
machine isn't top-heavy.
Several of my machines are mounted on opposite sides of flip-top
tables if they might be used alternately on the same job; planer +
jointer, 8" table saw + belt sander, sheet metal shear + corner
notcher. The base cabinet contains all tools and accessories.
On the lighter machine stands the casters are on narrow hinged boards
which can be flipped out with a toe to put the machine solidly on the
floor. It works better if each board has one swivel and one fixed
caster, aligned such that it doesn't roll away when you lift each side
to flip the board.
If not, just use bigger castors. I usually work outdoors with the
machines on a sloping, uneven asphalt driveway or the flatter ground
beside it. Any machine that requires side forces like a table saw has
retractable landing gear (see other post) and I kick shims under it to
stop wobble. The 4X6 bandsaw is on lawnmower wheels. I put rubber door
stop wedges under the casters to keep the welders from rolling and let
the heavier sheet metal machine stand rest against the tailgate of the
My garage floor is all pitched towards a drain, so I cant get anything
leveled without support block.
In my 10x18 garage I have 2 toolboxes , two 4 drawer boxes, 36x18 shelves, 2
side cabinets, Radial arm saw, table saw, 30x72 workbench, 36x18 metal
cabinet, 17" drill press, 20" scroll saw, 11 drawers (that was for
workbenches) stacked on top of each other and 2 small tool carts, 28'
ladder, and I can still fit my car in. What I did for the bench was made it
pivot between 2 4x4's that go from ceiling to floor (with pegboard in
between the two 4x4's), when in use I prop it up with a 2x3, if I need to
move it, the legs and supports get wing nutted on. I had to figure out what
to do with the radial arm saw or table saw since one of them would get in
the way of the car to park in there, so what I figured out was the table saw
without legs was 13" tall so I thought why not make that pivot to. Yes its a
bit heavy to get propping up and to let it hang when not in use, but its
working out great for me, the stand can get bolted on easily when I need to
move it out. 4x8 sheets are behind the 2 tool boxes and radial arm saw. I
have the garage pretty much well packed, even wood hanging from the ceiling.
You just need a creative thinking cap.
On Sun, 9 Sep 2007 22:46:13 -0400, "noreaster"
<noreaster1athotmaildotcom> wrote:>My garage floor is all pitched towards a drain, so I cant get anything
Shrug...my "shop is a partially closed in 14x54 carport with a dirt
floor and a 24" slope from end to end.
With the exception of the HLV-H and the Gorton MasterMill..everything
else is on 2x4s or 4x4s with shims.
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