Agreed that side pressure should be minimal, but why risk it happening at
all? I've noticed that with the fences that clamp down just at the front,
the single rail is much more massive than the Excalibur type with clamping
down on both sides. Both sides clamping just seems more efficient. Part of
my concern is that I use a wheelchair and with the width of the front
clamping only type, the thickness of the rail would preclude a few extra
inches from me getting as close to my work as possible. I've got quite a few
years working with a tablesaw, so I guess I'm going to have to view the
front clamping type in person and make a choice at that point.
You have valid points and special needs. The Excalivur is a very good fence
and may suite your needs better. But, going back the the single clamp issue
on the Beis style fences, the fence "T" section is about 12" wide where it
rides along the front rail and tends to be very sturdy ESPECIALLY at the
front of the saw where most of the pushing is going to be. If you go to the
far back end and try to wiggle the fence, it does indeed move if you watch
carefully but again you are not going to be wiggleing the back end of the
fence when cutting wood. I have used this type fence for about 7 or 8 years
and have never had a fence deflection problem. With a Forrest WWII, 95% of
my rips look better than the edge produced on a jointer.
With exception of the Excalibur probably, many fences that clamp in front
and back have a bad habit of being square until you lock the fence down.
This very often will pull the fence out of parallel with the blade.
I guess that's a point for the Bies and likely depends on quality
construction. Locking down simultaneously at front and back might well cause
the problem I'm attributing to a front only system although it happened very
rarely with the Excalibur and only when the clamping pressure was set too
high.. I guess it's going to come down to how comfortable I feel when in
front of a single rail fence system. Admittedly, I've hear nothing but good
things about biesemeyer fences. (haven't yet actually seen one that I could
play with) Also, an advantage over a dual rail system is having an outfeed
table butted right up against the tabletop; something that would definitely
be advantageous to my needs.
Bear in mind that many Bies-style fences still have a rear rail that the
fence glides on, so the fence ends up sitting just proud of the TS surface.
You still have to work around that with the outfeed table.
Scroll down on this page to see for yourself:
Not so.. The Beis and clones have a back rail to support the extension table
and mounts below that surface. The fence rides along the front rail and the
TS table and Extension.
Reread the link you posted and scroll down to questions and answers.
You will see,
Does the fence clamp or ride on the back rail?
No. The fence locks to the front guide only using a three-point locking
system. When the locking handle is lowered the fence automatically aligns
itself exactly parallel to the blade providing an extremely clean cut. And,
you can fully depend on the hairline pointer to provide accuracy to 1/64th
of an inch
Do I need an extension table?
Yes. The fence is supported by the front guide and the extension table.
You are provided with a drawing and instructions on how to build an
extension table, or you can purchase one directly from your dealer.
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