Re: Attention Box Makers

Basswood or pine resaws.

I'm starting to explore the art of making wood boxes. I'm making a run of > 5"X7" boxes with hinged bookmatched tops. I'm wondering what you expert > boxmakers use for the bottoms of your boxes. If I spent as much time making > the bottoms that I have making the tops I won't be able to sell the boxes > because I'll have too much into them. > > I've seen micro lumber but it seems expensive. Ideally I'd like to find some > 1/8 to 1/4 plywood that was presentable as the bottom of a box. What do you > do??? > > > Will > >
Reply to
George
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I use luaun door skins for smaller boxes, lined with velvet. I use thicker ply for bigger boxes. Good luck!

Michael Helms Mountaineer Millworks Weddington, NC remove "nogoons" from email for replies

Reply to
jhmmwoodman

I'm not an expert but do a bit of this sort of thing from time to time and have resawn 3/4 and run it though my planer to end up with a nice 1/4" solid wood for the bottoms. Not a lot of waste and it does give you some qualtiy.

A little screwing around but it looked great when I was done.

Reply to
Snowduster

Well I was literally JUST doing this (they're gluing now). I have a lumber supply that sets out scrap bits of maple and cherry, normally 3/4 bf chunks or so, for 25 cents apieces. They look nice as surface wood, but can be resawn into cheap box bottoms too! I only have a table saw, but I've been teaching myself how to resaw on it, and I'll get it down to 1/8 to 1/4 depending on the size of the project.

Since I'm not perfect with the TS-resawing yet, it's handy that I always put a velvet/velveteen/velour fabric in the inside, so even if I have weird saw marks on one side, I just put that facing up in the interior of the box and it gets covered with the fabric. Of course, if you have a planer it's not a big deal anyway, or if it bothers you a hand plane would take care of it.

david

Reply to
D K Woods

1/8" plywood here in Kentucky is about $8 for a 4x8 sheet. Enough for a lot of boxes. Thats what i use.

Regards, Charlie

Reply to
Charlie Campney

Mon, Jul 21, 2003, 8:24pm (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@tkestrelcreekdot.com (Will=A0Simpson) asks: What do you do???

Well, there is one school of thought lately that is testing the theory that if you don't put in a bottom at all you can get more stuff in. Not sure if all results are in yet, but the consensus seems to be that overall putting a bottom in works best.

JOAT Always put off until tomorrow something which, tomorrow, you could put off until, let's say, next year.

- Lady Myria LeJean.

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT Web Page Update 19 Jul 2003. Some tunes I like.

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Reply to
Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT

Ha, Ha, Ha! Funny JACK!

Will

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Well, there is one school of thought lately that is testing the theory that if you don't put in a bottom at all you can get more stuff in. Not sure if all results are in yet, but the consensus seems to be that overall putting a bottom in works best.

JOAT Always put off until tomorrow something which, tomorrow, you could put off until, let's say, next year.

- Lady Myria LeJean.

Reply to
Will Simpson

Will wrote: Group: rec.woodworking Date: Mon, Jul 21, 2003, 8:24pm (EDT-3) From: snipped-for-privacy@tkestrelcreekdot.com (Will=A0Simpson) I'm starting to explore the art of making wood boxes. I'm making a run of 5"X7" boxes with hinged bookmatched tops. I'm wondering what you expert boxmakers use for the bottoms of your boxes. If I spent as much time making the bottoms that I have making the tops I won't be able to sell the boxes because I'll have too much into them. I've seen micro lumber but it seems expensive. Ideally I'd like to find some 1/8 to 1/4 plywood that was presentable as the bottom of a box. What do you do??? Will

****************************************************** This is an addendum to my previous response post. If you do not have a planer you can resaw 1" (3/4") to get 1/4" thick pieces on your TS. Just do it slowly and carefully. Use a large featherboard to hold the wood tight against the fence. Raise the blade no more than an inch and run the board through. Keep raising the blade and makng cuts until you are a little more than half way through. Then turn the board end for end and repeat the process until the cut is completed. This way the top of the blade is never exposed. Some people try to resaw in one cut and that is dangerous. You will, of course have to sand any saw marks. Incidently, the reason that I do not recommend plywood is that the edges will show unless you rabbet the bottom of the box walls and set the bottom in. Peace ~ Sir Edgar =F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8= =F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8
Reply to
Sir Edgar

What part of the bluegrass you in Charlie?

Reply to
Jerry Gilreath

*snort* wish I HAD one....

or...a drum sander

david

Reply to
D K Woods

Could use one of those too. I think I've seen combos with a big belt and an oscillating drum on the same machine. That would be the ticket.

Reply to
Silvan

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