Question About Cool Blocks

[Greg G.]

Aw, gee... You're to good to me... Well, at least if you had to scrape reindeer poop off your shoes, Santa must have made a visit. Or maybe he just mistook your shop for a waste dump.

I don't think they have changed the basic configuration, but I could be wrong. Cheapened it, perhaps. The screws press the block against the back OK, but they still rock axially - top and bottom. Makes the block wear crooked and pinches the blade if you don't install them tilted - with the slop removed.

Anyway, I shimmed them and just finished cutting up a 12" x 2' oak 'log'. I was actually amazed that this cheap saw actually accomplished the task with very little effort. The WoodSlicer blade cuts extremely quietly, and has little lead. I am impressed.

Unfortunately, the oak had tons of worm tracks through it, so I guess it was of benefit only as learning experience. (The wood sat outside for 8 months.) It would have been better used as a turning blank - or firewood. Norm would like it, however - he likes those worm holes.

Incidentally, do you know of a source on the web that covers the basics of selecting and re-sawing wood - the procedures for selecting which face to cut for the best yield, grain patterns and such?

Thanks again, Greg

Greg G.

[Mark & Juanita]

One question that comes to mind in looking at your simulation, what is causing the downward forces on the blocks in the frontal view? You are showing a gap between the blades and the blocks; my understanding is that the blocks are to be in contact with the back of the blade. If the blocks are contacting the blade, it would seem that the blocks would be pulled toward one another and provide mutual support to prevent a gap from forming.

[Greg G.]

As mentioned in the text above the links, the gap was exaggerated so that the human eye could perceive it. The downward force is the movement of the blade. This 'invisible force' is handled easily in software. The block pinch is not a desirable behavior. In fact, the cool block instructions claim that they are to be set with clearance, not against the blade. Tilting is not a desired action.

Doesn't matter, I just shimmed them. Cut up a 12" x 2' log into planks. The WoodSlicer is a great blade, unbelievably quiet and very little lead.

Merry Christmas!

Greg G.

[George]

Superior, IMHO. I'm a turner, and when cutting rough wet timber into big circles, the cool blocks at the left wore away fairly quickly.

The ceramics are slick, sturdy, and d>

[Ron Magen]

Greg, Got anymore of that 'wormy' stock ?

I'll take a good bit of it 'off your hands'.

Put an 'eye' bolt in it, toss it off the dock to 'river soak' for a month {or till spring}and it will have that nice 'smooth & wormy' look . . . for some unique nautical projects I have in mind.

Yes, I am serious !!

Regarding the Ceramic guides . . . they make the blade 'sing' a bit. But then I may have my blade too loose. I'll probably get a 'set' of the heavier springs after the New Year {Yes - I do have Timberwolf blades, but the springs are a good idea, at the price, anyway}. My thinking is that the 'Cool Blocks' or the self-made hardwood ones are almost considered 'disposable' . . . the blade wears through them and there is 'friction heating' to consider. The Ceramics would 'run cooler' and 'burnish' the blade . . . especially with a 1/2" or 3/4" 'Resawing' blade in slight but actual contact. At least that's my thinking. So far, no problems with 'standard' blades with 'standard' set-up.

Regards & Thanks, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop