Just had a major heart attack. Called a local remodel and bulldog
contractor for and preliminary estimate on a room extension of 3O5 SQ
FOOT for a living room joined to the house and roof line. less window
There is and entry way of about 21 sq foot.
Also to divide the existing living room up into two rooms by one 13 ft
7in wall install two windows and the necessary sheet rock and
electrical. which would be two outlets.
This flipping guy emails back a cost estimate of $305 per sq ft or and
I quote, ". You can see that the national average for a mid-range
family room is $80,765. It is even more expensive on the West coast,
Then he says, "If I multiplied that by $250 it comes to $76,250 which
is close to the national average."
Which one of us is off or wigs?
The original contractor I called guesstimated 10-12 thousand plus 1300
contingency monies. Which seems about right, even if it is a tad high.
Am I being unrealistic here?
Maybe both of you. What are your specifications? The national
average has some rather large extremes and your specs can fall either
I suspect a difference in price if the walls are hand cut granite
versus 2 x 4 with OSD and Saran Wrap.
Devil is always in the details. Specs mean everything and OFWW just
hasn't provided enough info to judge the quote one way or the other.
What IS telling, however, is the one estimate he received - presumably
from someone in whom he confided all the specs and who may have even
viewed the current state of affairs. That has me leaning towards
agreeing with OFWW that his more recent bidder may be looking to cover
this years' overhead in one fell swoop. Still, if OFWW really wants
those 18k gold outlet covers and switch plates, who are we to argue?
They may look really snazzy with the rosewood baseboards and door
On 8/19/2016 9:07 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Spot on. The above is the most important " ...rest of the story" ... in
The cost to take a structure through framing to dry-in is pretty basic
and relatively easy to calculate. It's what comes after that adds to the
And, when comparing bids, it is impossible to do it effectively until
you know the precise justification by the bidder, in materials, labor
and required specs, for a particular his bids dollar amount.
I never discount a higher bid out of hand until I get the bidder to
justify his bid, and explain to me, in detail, why it is higher, AKA,
why I should consider it.
And, you will often find that the higher bid might well be a much better
deal in overall quality.
I will say that I recently caused to be designed and engineered (and
actually permitted), a similar "room addition" to an existing residence
(including a structural slab tied into the exiting, as well as roof
tie-in) that was +/- 970 square feet room addition.
Just went back and looked at my spreadsheet, and the bid to do that job
was going to run in the neighborhood of +/- $147/sf, and a good deal of
that was in the foundation, because the existing foundation had a
history of issues.
Although I didn't end up doing the job for various reasons, I did get
the job completely permitted and felt at the time my initial rough
estimate would be pretty close for contract purposes.
That said, and despite the often large disparity in regional prices for
materials and labor, more than doubling the OP's mentioned high bid
seems pretty much out of line.
I looked as the last guys pdf, thought it might have been a
guesstimate. Naw, it was from some re modelers mag on average costs
and list various things like kitchen remod, room extensions, garage
doors and the like, and what the percentage of return was.
Had supposed averages from various sections of the country.
According to it, my major kitchen remod would cost 54,000 bucks with a
77% ROI. When it is done I will have spent far less than 3,000 so I
guess when I do sell the house I am going to owe you guys a lot of
money from the huge profit I'll make. ;) Plus the fun of doing it.
Anyone that would have the gall to enclose something like that in
there basic denial of giving a bid is nuts.
I recently had the roof redone with good materials and a 40 year
warranty, and part of that is now throw away, but for three walls, a
concrete pad, extended Roof and basic outlets in the wall and using
just that part of the job for his rough estimate is out of line.
I think I am going to reply to him and let him know I didn't want
marble floor, walls and pillars with embedded gold threads running
Looks like I'll be going with the first guy I called, I saw his ROM
spreadsheet and I'd say he is in the ball park as a GC, and a nice
older guy to boot.
Yep! When you have a disparity like that you know something is up so
it's reasonable that OFWW should be concerned (what with having a heart
attack and surviving it and all<G>). Then again we could also speculate
that the two folks he was dealing with were an idiot and a crook.
Figure out which is which and neither estimate is close to reality for
what OFWW wants done.<g>
Sure, the devil is always in the details. But... I'd think $300/ft^2
was astronomical, too. New construction goes for something around
$100/ft^2, and around here, that includes the land - a couple of
acres. I understand that it's more expensive to add than to build
from scratch and 300 ft^2 isn't a whole house (smaller jobs cost
more). OTOH, I didn't see mention of a kitchen or bathroom in there,
But what do I know. You do this for a living. ;-)
It was supposed to be a close prelim quote to set up the direction we
all would go. They came and looked at the jobsite, I gave them a foot
print of the pertinent parts of the home and no load bearing walls
were to be removed.
Job would consist of stick and drywall. Plaster on the outside to
finish coat. Concrete slab for the new living room. Water line to the
house Relocated. The new living room would require new power, and the
inside finished and new roof tied into existing roof line. 16 1/2 feet
by 18 1/2 feet, roughed in for the bay window and an entry way. Just a
basic box is all that it is. Insulation to current code.
Move outside wall 26" to load bearing beam. window opening roughed it,
relocation of water piping and drain line, which would require busting
existing concrete and pouring new for the extension. Same finish
plaster as the rest, adding a couple electrical sockets, relocation of
Existing living room,
Install 13ft 7in wall, stick and drywall, two outlets, one each side.
rough in for windows, one each room, and enclose existing large
window. insulating outside walls
As to the windows, out glass guy will be supplying me the windows per
their spec'd size and the contractor installing them all except the
bay window which our glass guy needs to do for warranty purposes.
and that is the basics of it.
I wasn't looking for a quote here since I am in Calif. just rough
My heart attack was the ridiculous high price, and coming out of a
price book no less, like the car dealers job quotes.
My electrical panel had more than enough room.
Thanks for having the conversation here, I definitely learned a few
things (that are nice to know)!
Speaking of car dealers: While having other work done at the Buick
dealer, I asked them to repair the "glove compartment latch"--which I
had already removed. They said it would be $100 for the part and $60
labor, and I would have to come back because they didn't have it in
stock. I mentioned that I had seen the part for less than half of that
online, and offered them $100 for the replacement, but they declined. I
got it for $32 on ebay and replaced the 3 screws myself... It took a
little fiddling to move the lock cylinder from the old one to the new
one, but it could be done in a minute. Charging upwards of 30K for a new
car, I might think they might replace a part like that as a courtesy so
that the customer returns to them when it's time for a new car... they
(apparently) know better...
Never had a dealer do anything for free. It is not just $160, don't
forget the added charge for hazardous materials disposal they like to
slip in. Check their price to install a cabin filter you can buy for
$10 and install in five minutes. Most get around $60.
There are some really good dealers and independent shops but the auto
repair industry is loaded with sleazy shops too. I'm sure everyone here
has stories about them.
The money you cheated the dealer out of is better spent taking your wife
to dinner and enriching the restaurant staff.
Does your neighbor work for a dealer? ;-)
Some cars are easy to work on, some next to impossible to do this sort
of thing. I've stopped doing any maintenance on my cars. I don't
have the time and I have other things I'd rather bust my knuckles on.
Having recently heard the term, I think what he really has is "Rodney
Dangerfield Syndrome".... I think some medical people invented the term
for use in their discipline. It may loosely correspond with having a job
you hate. It's an interesting phenomenon, but not nearly as funny as
Rodney Dangerfield was (I liked him).
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