I'd like to know these 2 measurements:
1 -The distance from the front the counter top to the front of the range.
2 - The difference in the height of the counter vs. the height of the side of the range, specifically the section near the red pot cover.
We're going to be doing something similar (slide-in range with countertop on both sides) and I will be building two base cabinets. I'm assuming that your installation is "standard" so knowing the difference in depths will will help me determine the depth of my countertop and therefore the depth on the base cabinet. We're going to the countertop fabricator this week and I need to account for those two pieces in the layout.
Obviously, I don't need the height for the fabricator, but am I curious as to what was used in your kitchen.
Front of the Counter top to the front of the range control console,
2.25" To the front of the oven door handle approximately 2.75"
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The back area of the range top is approximately 1/4" higher than the counter top. Closer to the front of the range the difference is closer to 3/8" If we have a spill we want it to go towards the back of the cook top.
FWIW I matched the height of the existing bottom cabinets, the 2 that we reused, for the new cabinets. The quartz is 3 cm thick.
Thanks. I’ve looking at the installation instructions for a few ranges. They all state the dimensions given assume a 25” deep counter. Is that what you have?
BTW…what a PITA to shop for appliances, especially ranges and fridges. If you like the handles on Model A vs. Model B, then you better like top mounted knobs vs. front mounted knobs. And the matching fridge for that model range? Sorry, you have to settle for a full width tuck shelf, not the half width tuck shelf, or water on the inside vs. the outside. It’s impossible to find a matching set that has all the features you want on both units. Regardless of what you choose, you are going to have to give something up and “settle” on some feature that you don’t like.
My Counter top is 25 5/8" deep to the sheet rock. 25 1/8" deep to the back splash. You want to plan for the counter top to extend past the front of the cabinet face frame enough to allow for extending past the drawer/door front and a bit more than that. Ours is between 1.25"~1.5" past the face frame.
We have been doing some research on refrigerators. It seems that YouTube has a bunch of repairman reviews of these appliances. Most say that 95% built in the last 10 or so years are problematic. ESPECIALLY Samsung and LG. Apparently LG has compressor problems with their unique compressor design. Samsung has multiple problems, my BIL and SIL have a Samsung "Bespoke" that has had compressor problems. They had to get Samsung to buy back their model that was under 1 year old because they could not get parts, including the compressor. And they had to purchase another Samsung for that to happen. No refund. Buy back because the model they bought was discontinued.\ Consumer reports is not fond of wither Samsung or LG. At the moment the the better upper end models are Bosch and GE. And the simpler the unit the better. No exterior water or ice is recommended. The repair guys say get the units with the ice maker in the freezer and scoop your own ice. And water from inside the unit. Apparently most ice maker problems stem from an ice maker inside the refrigerator portion vs. inside the actual freezer itself.
We are currently looking at the 800 series Bosch. And of course with SS you can get this with handles or no handles. Want dark/black SS? Handles only.
We want to go counter depth, what ever that means. 95% of counter depth models, that are affordable, extend past the counter at least 5". Our current 28 cubic foot Samsung extends about 12" past the counter top.
Something else we are considering is whether to get concealed or exposed handles. Concealed overall are shallower because the handles normally protrude about 2.5" past the front of the unit. BUT they also act as bumpers to protect against dings to the surface. In our case an eat in kitchen chair could bang into the front of the fridge. Curved front or flat front? Flat is more likely to catch a ding. Stainless steel or painted? Many finger print free stainless steel models have a clear plastic coating, same with the darker stainless steel models. Be careful cleaning that surface as the film can be damaged and begin to peal. So use the recommended cleaners and nothing abrasive or harsh.
That counter depth is pretty restrictive in a modern kitchen, and will cause endless expense, the fridge being a very good example.
It may be cheaper to redo the cabinets and counters for a greater depth, allowing standard appliances to fit without fuss.
The added depth is also useful for parking and using small appliances.
Yes. At least 30", maybe 36". 26+12= 38"
In my kitchen, there are two facing walls with counters, cabinets, and major appliances on both walls. There is enough space between facing counters that I would have gone to at least 36". Maybe someday.
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Yes's. Too much plastic, too much electronics and pointless complication. And when the electronics fails, it often makes the fridge un-evaporable. Planned obsolescence.
I have a Bosch fridge with built-in ice maker. That ice maker never worked correctly, and the ice bin would overfill and freeze into a glacier. My solution was to disconnect the water from the fridge.
The ice bin, which took a lot of space, now holds cheese.
I mocked up and mounted a drawer front similar to what I'm going to build so that "laser guy" that templated my counter would know what it's going to look like. I believe he said 1.25" past the face frame which will be enough to extend passt the 3/4" drawer front.
We're waiting for them to finish up the cut plan for us to approve.
Whether it's been at an Airbnb or at a friend's/relative's house, I don't think I've ever used a fridge with in-the-door-ice that didn't consistently throw a cube or 2 on the floor. SWMBO and I kept that in mind when we went shopping. We choose a unit with water in the door, ice maker in the freezer.
Interior water doesn't make sense to me. Not only does it take up space, but you have to open the fridge just to get a glass of water. Inefficient and a PITA.
One sales guy reminded us to consider "usable space" not just cubic footage.
20 cu ft isn't really 20 cu ft if there's a big control console at the front top and a water filter compartment hanging on the left wall
We have a Bosch 800 dishwasher. It washes well but it's hard to load the bottom rack efficiently. Even with all the folding tines and other adjustments, we can't get as much in the Bosch as we could in the old Whirlpool that we had for 20+ years. It's a heck of lot quieter though. It's so quiet that they include a red light that shines on the floor right under the door so you know that it's running.
Yep...
Due to space limitations, the widest fridge we can get is 30". Our current fridge is 35.5" from the wall to the outside of the handles and that's as far as we want to go. That limited our options too.
We ended up with a Maytag unit, freezer on the bottom, French door model. 20 cu ft. We'll move the current 19.5 cu ft fridge to the basement and kick the 10 cu ft relic to the curb.
We shopped at 4 or 5 different appliance stores and only one sales-guy offered us "future pricing research". He has access to a system that tells hem when the model you are interested in is going on sale. For example, we are in no hurry, so he looked up our model numbers and told us that if we wait another month the range will be on sale for $150 off. The price on the fridge isn't changing any time soon, so we could order that now or wait and order them both at the same time. We're waiting.
I'll keep that in mind. We chose a FP-proof model. That was another limiting factor when it came to matching the fridge to the range. You can't choose FP-proof for the fridge and standard SS for the range, even within the same brand, and expect the "color" to match.
Actually that depth is an industry standard and the common depth that builders are using.
Cheaper? I just redesigned and rebuild our kitchen with industry standard measurements. Few appliances with the exception of dishwashers fit evenly with counter tops. FWIW "Counter Depth" ranges and refrigerators ALL have different depths differing as much as 3~7" past the depth of the counter tops. With the exception of "built in" refrigerators and or stand alone cook tops modern appliances extend past the top of the counter tops. And unfortunately, for built in refrigerators, the around $10,000 price tag is not warranted.
24" is not an issue. Our small appliances go in any of the 18 drawers that I added to our kitchen. Out of sight.
No.
You may want to consult an architect and or refer to standards that most all mortgage companies require. If counter tops are not within certain standards they may not meet requirements for a future prospective buyer to get a loan.
Having said that the distance between our cabinets and our island are
42" minimum. The dishwasher door can be open and it is easy to walk between the open door and the island. That also goes for the open oven door and the island.
The sink/oven/range/refrigerator reside an the "L" portion of the kitchen with those counter tops being the standard 24"~26" depth.
We did add an 11' x 3' peninsula approximately 10' away from the island and 16' away from the "L" section of the counter tops that also have the oven/range unit.
You should reconsider reaching to the back of a 36" counter top to wipe down the back splash. That likely would require a step stool for most women considering that the top of the standard back splash is 54" from the floor.
Mostly plastic has been the norm inside refrigerators side and back panels and door shelving for decades. Plastic is not the issue.
Complication naturally increases the possibility of a failure. The biggest issues with refrigerators with ice dispensers in the doors is that the ice maker itself is normally in the higher temperature refrigerated section. The temperatures near the ice maker are ever changing as the ice maker goes into a defrost mode with every cycle of ice. This makes temperatures inside the higher temp section of the refrigerator harder to regulate to a constant temperature at a minimum.
Our range is 27" deep to the front of the pull handles. The front mounted control console is back 1" from that. Ours is a GE Profile "Induction" cook top and convection oven. If you are still looking, we had an electric range for 30 years. When we built the new house 12 years ago my wife wanted to go with gas, she learned to cook on gas. So we went with the standard gas arrangement but upgraded the unit when we moved in. I had made an arrangement for a local builder supplier to take our new unit "unused" that the builder installed and replace with an upper end gas range.
3 years ago my wife was ready to get rid of gas, but did not want to go back with standard electric. Hence the switch to induction for the cook top. Things we did not realize, well probably she realized this but it was news to me. An induction cook top heats pots and pans faster than gas. We saw a demo of an induction vs. a gas cook top. Both had a tea pot filled with tap water. The sales guy turned both units on at the same time and the induction handily beet the gas bringing the water to a boil. AND the tea pot on the induction was siting on top of a paper napkin. The napkin did not burn and when he lifted the tea pot and removed the napkin he placed his hand on the burner. Try that with any other cook top. So this is a neat feature but why? On a standard gas or electric range if you get a boil over you get a mess. Accidentally splash some sauce or gravy out of the pan on to the cook top and you get a baked on mess. And with gas cook tops the mess gets into nooks and crannys. With induction the cook top is smooth, no cracks, and if you make a mess while cooking you lift the pan and wipe up the mess with a kitchen rag. The mess does not bake on and you can immediately wipe it up. Clean up is something you can do immediately after removing the pot or pan. No waiting for things to cool down. Now the top does get pretty warm but not so much that would cause a burn. Also induction requires ferrous metal pots and pans. We had plenty of those and we also took advantage of a rebate that GE was offering that included a free set of pots and pans. And those are decent quality.
We did have to have an electrician come in and install a 50 amp 240 volt outlet for the range.
Yes. The standard drawer front often extends 7/8" past the FF. I have always used Euro style hinges on cabinets with FF's These hinges bump the cabinet doors out 1/8" from the FF so that there is clearance. I put 1/8" bumpers on the back of the false drawer fronts so that they match the depth of the door.
Try this to keep the ice in the glass. Open the opposite refrigerator door before you move/remove the glass. That stops the dispenser while the glass is still in place. ;~) Normally pulling the glass out changes the position of the glass before it is no longer in contact with the switch. OR you can also press the water despenser and that will stop the ice also, however you have the same problem with the water spilling as you remove the glass. Just open the opposite door to turn off the dispenser before you move the glass. It is now a muscle memory habit for me to to this.
All of the interior water dispensers I have seen are typical on the left side of the interior near the front. They maybe stick out as much as an inch. And they are located where they do not interfere with any storage.
Yes but I units that do not dispense ice out of the door don't have this.
Do you see the water dispenser on this unit, very top picture.
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It is on the left side interior side panel in front of those tiny red bottles. And the filter is in the upper tight corner. And of course the ice maker is IN the lower freezer, you scoop your own ice. Because of all of the door dispenser issues manufacturers are offering this alternative.
We have had Whirlpool dishwashers for the past 33 years. Yeah we had the builder supplier swap the new unused GE dishwasher out for a upper end Whirlpool too. ;~)
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