I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v åhhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
by the hobbyists.
Grex is one of the better quality nailers I believe, but if you go by
many of the recent comments, most cheap nailers will work fine. Or,
two of the really cheap ones at some sale, should one die off early.
Do you mean 23ga pin nailer or 16-18ga brad nailer, Denis? Lots of us
occasional users have the <$30 Harbor Freight brad nailer/staplers and
love them. http://tinyurl.com/7psb2pq For everything else.
$25 23ga pinner: http://tinyurl.com/89azexy for fine furniture
For hobbyist and other occasional use, I've never seen any need to
spend over $100 for a fancy brand.
For a professional, who uses a pinner daily, the additional money
_might_ be worth it.
To use fear as the friend it is, we must retrain and reprogram ourselves...
We must persistently and convincingly tell ourselves that the fear is
here--with its gift of energy and heightened awareness--so we can do our
best and learn the most in the new situation.
Peter McWilliams, Life 101
I have the one from HF and its fine for my use. It only shoots 1" pins but
its fine for me. Got it on sale for around $20.
The only issue I have with the video itself is that it looks like and
probably is a ad for the Grex brand nailer. A brand I have never seen.
The Grex looks good though the best feature I can see is the low nail
lockout feature. When you are out of pins, the only way to find out is when
your nailed piece doesn't stay where you nailed it.
I have the Grex 635 and have had it for 3~4 years now. A great tool.
A pin nailer is great for what it was intended but keep in mind that
once you start using the longer pins, =>1-3/8" the risk of deflection
increases dramatically. The guns are capable of shooting the longer
pins but when you get into the harder woods the longer pins will follow
It is great for adding trim until the glue dries, setting up jigs, and
any where you don't want to see the nail hole.
Extra capacity is great when you need it, but thus far I've had very few
situations, if any, where my 23ga Omer, limited to just a RCH under 3/4"
in pin length, has not been sufficient for my needs (attaching trim).
It would be interesting to see a graph of the most used lengths of those
owning pinners ... probably some sales data would tell the tale.
"Crown molding" covers a lot of territory in size, thickness and what it
If I catch anyone working for me putting up "crown molding" in a house
with just a 23ga pinner, they'd be corrected on the spot, and fired the
Smaller crown molding, maybe, and smaller molding and trim, like dentil
molding, yes ... but, depending upon the length and width of the pieces
being installed, you also better back the 23 ga pins with adhesive of
some sort on anything over 1/2" thickness if you don't expect to come
back to reattach it in short order.
My experience, in any event.
For what it is worth, when I bought my Grex 635 it came with an
assortment of every size pin that it would shoot, 900 of each.
I have used every size except the 7/7" and have purchased boxes of
10,000 in replacement sizes of 3/4" and 1/2".
http://thefastenercompany.com/23_gauge_pins.htm will sell in smaller
quantities of each size.
How difficult is it to pull apart pinned wood? Once in awhile, I shoot
a nail when the wood isn't aligned properly. Just a dumb mistake, but
the worst part is trying to pull the pieces apart without destroying
the project. A headless pin would make correcting a mistake like that
much easier to correct.
IME, much easier than pulling apart most material fastened with 18ga
brads ... and I use both for making temporary jigs on almost every
If I want something I can pull a part more easily, and of the same
length for the material, I use the pin nailer. No comparison.
Think what you might be doing with a pin nailer.
The idea is to hold something until the glue dries.
The basic job is to hold some molding to a piece of
Good luck driving some tiny pin that's 2" long.
Most pin nailers are "around" 1.25"
but 1" is very common.
On 2/12/2012 4:51 AM, Denis M wrote:
A follow up to my comments about my Grex pinner. I have had the pinner
almost 5 years.
I had a problem with it 2 days ago, it would not retract the ram after
each shot unless I removed the pins and dry fired.
I called GREX, the receptionist was knowledgeable about the product and
almost gave me the remedy but I probably confused her with too much
information. She immediately turned me over to Raymond in tech
service. Raymond let me describe the problem again in the order
witnessed. He guided me through partial disassembley and diagnosed the
problem and told me the exact seal that had gone bad. I had a repair
kit. He offered a complimentary o-ring almost 4 years after the
warranty expired. I refused the offer as I had the repair kit already.
So from that point he had me open the repair kit instruction sheet and
told me exactly which o-ring and the part number on the diagram to replace.
Service after the sale and the warranty. I was impressed and 15 minutes
later my gun was firing like new.
You know Leon, you just don't mind spending money on a product when
you get what you pay for. Whether it's Festool, Grex, or any other
product (like my Kershaw knives), I don't mind paying for a good
product that has great customer support.
As far as pinners go, I didn't know if I would actually use a one, so
I bought one at HF for $12 when they were on sale. I don't use it
much, but it is a tool I have come to use more often.
Recently, I had a bath re-do for a realtor. The cabinets were old
Doug Fir plywood built on site in the early 50s, and were still really
solid. The doors were solid slabs with no features. I filled the
pull holes, and put some new, fancy nickel 3 1/2" pulls on the doors
and drawers. On the faces of the cabinets and drawers, I put a frame
of a 5/8" bead that I held in about 3" all the way around. So it had
a kind of traditional look, but with the molding being so small it
didn't look too dated.
I really used the hell out of the pinner on that job. It never
misfired, jammed, or misbehaved. I did hit a couple of hard spots
(probably a knot in the plywood substrate) which caused the pin to
turn back 180 degrees. The misfires were easily removed with a pair
I liked the fact that with a prime coat, I didn't need to fill the
holes. The paint filled them!
Their was also a large pass through between the kitchen and the dining
room. It was big enough that it also served as a bar to seat three
people. The builder actually took a door, laid it flat, and installed
that as the bar top. But years of too many coats of varnish coupled
with too many cleanings had made top awful. It had too much old
finish to resurface or to put on plastic.
As I had done before for outside table tops, I put on an extra thick
12" floor tile that looked like slate. It came out great, was cheap,
and the realtor was thrilled with the end product (especially the
price!). A major improvement if you saw the original mess, and
actually looked pretty good. (Don't look too close, you know...)
The perimeter pieces that had been cut to match the "grout" pattern
began to fall off. Too much gummy stuff under the tiles for them to
stick. I took out the pinner, put the end pieces back up one at a
time, and then shot them at an up angle so you didn't see them when
looking directly at them or from the top. The pinner raised a little
tab of plastic, which was easily driven back into the hole with a
You never saw the pins.
Part of the arsenal now, that's for sure.
On 2/15/2012 1:38 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I absolutely love the "no-recoil" so no chance of denting the work.
But, more and more I use the pinner for setting up jigs, which was what
I was trying to do the other day when it refused to operate.
it is quite good at attaching 1/4" radius quarter around moldings around
BTY I carried a Kershaw knife for probably 20 years until I had
sharpened the point so much that it no remained inside the handle in my
pocket. Reaching in my pocket I poked a hole in my finger. ;~) I
could never find the same knife locally.
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