I cut notches in the wrong place on the top of a panel. I think the best solution will be to patch it by gluing pieces in the proper place and cutting the notches again. What can I do to disguise the patch as much as possible?
Puckdropper
Sorry to hear of your dilemma. A pic would probably help folks who have BTDT to help you. Good luck.
Bill
It would also help to know if this was a furniture piece or a utility piece. But by all means, a picture would help.
Deb
wrote:
They'll show. Depending on grain, you could cut off a strip containing the boo-boos, glue on a replacement and try again.
Alternatively, glue in thicker pieces, cut notches and you now have a "design element".
What an open-ended question! Depends on the wood, the location of the notches, the type of finish you were planning on, whether you want to use toners or glazes, etc.
Furnish some pictures forthwith!
RWhat type of panel?
Wall panelling? Inset furniture panel? Laminated wood? Cabinet door raised panel?
Puckdropper
Bill wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news7.newsguy.com:
I've uploaded the sketchup diagram to A.B.P.W. This is the plan diagram, not what actually resulted. The sockets for the top runner dovetails were cut in the wrong place, and this is what would need to be repaired.
The piece is designed to carry gingerbread houses safely, so is more of a utility piece than fine furniture, but I'd like it to look as nice as possible.
Puckdropper
RicodJour wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:
The wood is just standard knotty pine. I've got plenty of pieces of the same thickness (off cuts). The finish will be shellac, unless I have to put poly on top to protect the shellac. (I don't believe I'll need it.)
Puckdropper
In your situation I'd be tempted to just rip the pieces down to eliminate the notches, glue on a new piece and recut the notches. That would probably be almost as quick as patching and recutting and would be pretty much undetectable if done right.
RPuckdropper wrote: ...
My newsserver doesn't carry binary groups but...
I'd wonder if couldn't simply cut the panel down and then glue a strip of the same material on and resize the overall panel wouldn't be both simplest and least obvious repair...
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RicodJour wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@j1g2000vbl.googlegroups.com:
Once I rip that piece down, I've got 3/8" of original material left. After gluing (with Titebond II), will the new piece be as strong or stronger than the old? I need to attach handles at some point.
I do agree that will be the most invisible fix, but just don't want to see the whole piece come apart as I make the cut.
Puckdropper
...
A good joint w/ even white glue is stronger than the wood so yes, it should be plenty strong enough.
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Cut replacement pieces and put small wedges in to fill gaps, making sure to align the grain as best you can. If you were really concerned, I'm sure you'd just replace the panel.
-- You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
I can not find it in A.P.B.W why not post a picture with tinypic,picassa or photobucket etc and just supply the url?
F Murtz wrote in news:4d22928e$ snipped-for-privacy@dnews.tpgi.com.au:
It shows up just fine in A.B.P.W for me, but for those who can't see it here's the picture on my website.
Nice dovies on top and -slot- mortises? Why not real mortises?
-- You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
The slot mortises hold the panel in place. The panel was not shown on the diagram because it was easier to build than to draw.
Puckdropper
Cut the patch symmetrically around a knot?
No, pop the knot out and coat it with 30 weight oi...oops, wrong thread.
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