Thought I would ask here first but if someone can point me to a better
forum that is a good answer also.
Designer convinced me to do hardwood floors all through main part of
house. Has carpet and linoleum now. I will also replace all interior
doors and front door with new pre-hungs. I am a furniture guy not a
construction guy so haven't done some of thes ops.
1. Do interior door jambs sit on top of hardwood?
2. Where hardwood hallway meets carpeted bedroom, should hardwood
extend full depth of jamb and transition to carpet take place at
inside face of jamb in bedroom?
3. Doing built-in book case\desk along one wall in living room. Should
they sit on subfloor or on hardwood.
4. In Kitchen, I have decent cabs, is it OK to leave them in place and
just run new floor up to them?
Good, smart designer!
Bear in mind that hardwood floors will last 50+ years. In the house I
grew up in Montreal, they were installed in 1930 and are still fine.
I would put them on top, it's a PITA otherwise: You need to make a
very clean cut as you can't cover the joint with quarter round or shoe
moulding. You'll be replacing the jambs anyway, so it's not a big
deal. You might have to cut down the doors & jambs depending on how
the opening is framed, but that is not hard.
Hardwood, in case you or somebody else decides to remove or rebuild
I would remove & put the cabinets back on top of the floor. this is
even more of an issue than with your built-ins as the kitchen cabinets
are sure to last less time than the hardwood.
This is my advice, YMMV, and is worth exactly what you paid for it.
This is probably more aesthetic than anything, but what you are
suggesting sounds good.
Yes, hardwood underneath.
What kind of counter/backsplash have you got? Ideally it should be
underneath, but if you have a solid surface top, tile backsplash etc, it
may be too much hassle/money. The problem may rear its ugly head when
you or the next owner of the house decide to redo the kichen, are they
at least stock sizes?
Just my 2 cents.
Should meet "under the door" if you go to either end of the jambs, it will not look right. At least that is what happened to me. And it still looks wrong!
If you can, put the book case on top of the hardwood. Looks better and is easier to fit.
That is usually the way it is done. I did mine the other way -- pulled the base cabinets. I like that look and it was easier to install the hardwood.
From my point of view, it may take a little longer (?) but the finished look is worth the effort.
P D Q
Normally, yes. I know of no law that requires it but it is easiest that
way. Probably unnecessary but it can't hurt to bevel the bottom of the jamb
so the visible edge meets the floor well.
Better that than the reverse but I like transitions under the door.
I see nothing wrong with doing so, mine are that way although floor is tile
rather than wood.
Someone mentioned the possibility of new cabinets in the future and voted
for flooring under "just in case"...I can't see that as a reason as new
cabinets should fit in the same space as the old; if not, ripping off a
narrow strip of floor or adding a thicker kick plate would fix any
Someone mentioned dishwashers too...a valid concern as you need enough
distance between new floor and cab bottom to get the dishwasher in/out.
I have never put flooring under a dishwasher (my places have always been
slab floor). I *do* put flooring under the front edge of the dishwasher,
not quite up to where the front feet will rest, for appearance and put
strips of wood from that flooring to the wall to rest the washer on.
On Sun, 6 Sep 2009 11:35:19 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
Yes, the jambs sit on top of the floor.
Half way under the door is ideal. But either way is acceptable.
Yes. You can run the floor under the kickplates. I would not
recommend a hardwood floor in the kitchen, though. If you must, buy a
few battery operated water alarms, they are very inexpensive and can
save the floor.
: 1. Do interior door jambs sit on top of hardwood?
Yes, also on top of laminate floors. If you're installing new jambs, no
problem. If you have current jambs you want to keep, undercut them neatly
with a jamb saw, and slide the flooring underneath. Use a scrap of
flooring, plus whatever underlayment you're using, to calculate height,
then cut and see if the height was correct.
You can get a handsaw that will do this, but I recommend
a power jamb saw -- like a cross between a router and a circular saw
(circular saw blade, about 5" diameter, at the end of a motor arbor with
height adjustment). Fast, and easy to use. They're rentable (I got mine
at Home Depot rental center, $19 for four hours, $26 for a day).
-- Andy Barss
Just as good is a Harbor Freight Multifunction tool (on sale this week for
I've used just about everything the amateur DIY has: Dremel, offset jamb
saw, angle grinder, cross-cut saw, remove the molding, and nothing even
comes close to the accuracy or ease-of-use that's to be had with a
Wow!!! Thanks everyone. Great responses and very helpful.
If I make the carpet and HW meet under the door, what happens to the
jamb at the floor? Do I notch it down the the sub on the carpet side?
Great catch on the dishwasher. That is exactly the type of disaster I
usually create with these things. I could just see myself sawzalling
apart the old dishwasher to get it out when it fails a week after I
finish the floor.
The cabs have a crappy laminate counter top that I am going to replace
and it has the splash on it with no tile splash or anything so I think
I could easily pull the cabs and put them back in an inch higher.
Maybe I'll just lay the HW a few inches under the front edge and fill
in with ply as needed for a solid footing.
Now that it was mentioned I have see those jamb saws and have seen the
multitool images cutting jambs and it all makes sense now. Regardless,
I am going to do all new doors, the pre-hungs are only $44 each for
pretty nice doors and I saw them on sale for $27 a few months ago.
I'll keep an eye out for another sale. This project will happen over a
Depends on where the wood stops and the carpet begins. Obviously the
interior jamb is not notched, since there's no wood under it. So, then, you
notch as far as the wood goes, then put in a transition piece. Most will
install the wood completely under the door so the carpet cannot be seen from
Heh! I used a cheap (thin) laminate for a couple of guest bedrooms. I had
some left over, so I used the remnants for the kitchen countertops and
backsplash. Looks like butcher-block and turned out swell.
I had bamboo installed in my previous house. The installer didn't run
the floor under the bedroom door so a strip of carpet showed when the
door was closed. It really looked dumb. Lesson learned; DIY.
Um, back splashes aren't supposed to swell. ;-)
I was going to use the leftover bamboo for work benches, but sold the
house and moved. I left the bamboo (a couple of boxes), along with
spare tile for all the bathrooms, laundry, and closets for the new
owners neatly marked in the basement. Oh, spare carpet too (it was
new). I wish the builder of this house had done the same. :-(
Depends on how the house was built. Slab foundation, typically the jam is
there before the final floor is put down and the jam is under cut the the
thickness of the floor being installed. There is a special saw for this
that you can rent or you can lay a sample of the floor new flooring next to
the jam and use a Multimaster type tool to cut the jam bottom using the
flooring as a height guide.
When I remodeled out master bath, I pulled carpet out that led to the
bedroom and put down an engeneered maple wood floor in the MB. I left the
carpet and wood floor just shy of the center of the jamb. I made a maple
threshold to cover the transition.
I have done it both ways. If you put it on the sub floor you have less
floor to put down.
That is what I did 20 years later in my kitchen. I have had a reason to
wish I had done it differently. Again, less materials to install.
If in the future the cabinets are to be replaced the new cabinets will have
to be an exact fit or set on new floor and shimmed in the back.
Now if your new floor is 2" thick, you may want to put the cabinets up
On Sun, 6 Sep 2009 11:35:19 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
If the new doors will fit in the framing, after the new floor is
installed, that IMO is your best option. If they won't, you have to
decide whether it's easier for you to cut the jambs and the new doors
shorter (so they can be installed on top of the new floor) or is it
easier to under cut the jambs and install the doors first.
One thing to remember here is that if you set your door jambs on top
of the new floor, if that area of the floor (between you jamb legs) is
not level, you will have to raise one jamb side to get the jamb header
level. In that case, one leg will no longer be setting on the new
floor. If it's only off a 1/16" or so it won't be noticeable but if
it's off 1/4" it will.
Halfway under door.
Probably easier if they set on the new hardwood. You will probably
need to use base shoe either way but if the bookcase has a toe space,
it's pretty hard to run the flooring in that toe area and you will
have to cut around the new cabinets.
Depending on the thickness of the floor, the dishwasher may not come
out. Lay a few pieces of the new floor in front of the dishwasher and
see if you can still get it out.
If you don't have other complications, like changing the backsplash,
replacing tops, or maybe a tall pantry cabinet which will make you
move the uppers too, it's always better to re-set the lowers.
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