No argument there...
.. but I'll give you one here. I'm pretty close to 100% certain that (a) the National Electrical Code requires no such thing, and (b) even the thirty-nine cent made-in-Mexico receptacles at Home Depot are UL-listed (and therefore Code-approved) for feed-through connections.
If you have information to the contrary, I'd like to see it.
Nothing contrary actually, just that almost all electricians I know do it this way. Reason fewer call backs.
Mark (sixoneeight) = 618
Yes, I know that. I agreed that it was best practice. I was disputing the claim that "most building codes require it."
Current code requires pigtails if the circuit continues downstream. I'm sure things like this is the reason they don't allow receptacles to be used to continue circuits except GCFI receptacles.
Brian Elfert
I believe pigtails are required by National Electric code now. The city here gives out a booklet to homeowners doing their own wiring and lists common things that homeowners miss and pigtails are listed as a requirement.
Brian Elfert
I don't think so. Citation, please?
I've just read Article 406, which "covers the rating, type and installation of receptacles, cord connectors, and attachment plugs (cord caps)" [2005 NEC, Art. 406.1] from beginning to end, and I find no such requirement there.
406 also incorporates Article 210 Part III by reference; I don't find it there either.I'm not going to say it isn't there... but I will say that I've never seen it, and when I went looking for it, I couldn't find it. So: if you say the Code requires this, please cite the article of the Code where the requirement can be found.
Got a cite for that?
Might be a requirement in your local jurisdiction, but AFAIK this is *not* in the NEC.
Only NEC requirement I know of is that a device will be removable with out interrupting the neutral in a run. Kind of implies that the neutral be pigtailed.
Mark (sixoneeight) = 618
1999 code: Section 300-13 (b):
In multiwire branch circuits, the continuity of a grounded conductor shall not depend on device connections such as ..., receptacles, etc., where removal of such devices would interrupt the continuity.
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Looks like it only applies to three+ wire circuits with a shared grounded conductor, not the more typical 12-2NM w/g single branch circuit.
scott
So you're claiming that there is no difference between the $0.50 garbage and the "spec grade" devices other than the "spec grade" marking? I've compared the two side by side and they are vastly different in quality, particularly contact area and contact pressure.
Pete C.
You've already located one potential fire hazard so in all probability there are others lurking. Even if you don't replace devices or change to pigtails I would certainly pull each device and change them from push wire to the screw terminals.
Pete C.
No, you are missing the point.
As you call it, "$0.50 garbage", am assuming you are referring to residential grade devices, can actually be called "spec grade", the "spec" being "residential".
The term "spec grade" is strictly generic and can be used to define almost any family of devices.
BTW, I'm with you, I wouldn't use the "$0.50 garbage" either.
Next time you need receptacles, take a look at a 5262.
It is back/side wired and designed for the high end industrial market.
Think you might will be happy with it.
Lew
Got a cite for that?
Seriously, I've never seen that one either. Doesn't mean it isn't there... but I'll have to see it in the Code before I believe it.
I suppose it's like the "blueprinted engine" term, not very meaningful or specific, but with a generally accepted definition indicating built to tighter tolerances.
Pete C.
Section 300-13 (b) (1999 NEC). Only applies to multiwire branch circuits.
scott
Yep -- that's because opening the neutral on a multiwire branch circuit results instantly in a 240V potential across 120V devices. AFAIK there's no general requirement to pigtail anything, just in that one circumstance.
I don't see how a 120 device (wired with one current carrying conductor, a grounded conductor and a grounding conductor) can suddenly have a
240V potential simply because the grounded conductor no longer is.My assumption here vis-a-vis multiwire circuits are those where two current carrying conductors from different legs are paired with a grounded conductor to allow e.g. 12-3NM w/g to provide two distinct 120V branch circuits, or in a commercial setting using 208 three phase using 4 wires to provide 4 120 circuits.
scott
Consider for example a duplex receptacle wired so that the top and bottom outlets are on opposite legs of the 240V service. Now plug something into each outlet and turn it on. If the neutral is no longer grounded, you've just completed a 240V circuit through that 120V duplex receptacle and the devices plugged into it. In effect, removing the neutral turns it from two loads in parallel on two 120V circuits, to two loads in series on one 240V circuit.
Your assumption is exactly correct. That's why it's so dangerous to lose the neutral in a multiwire circuit: because the entire circuit downstream of the failure goes to the highest potential available.
Ah yes, thank you. Didn't consider the effect of the load.
scott
Old horse I guess. When I did my house I did 5252 from P&S. It is labeled specification grade on the box. Side and back wire screw. No wimpy push the wire in buzz and spark connections. They were a few dollars more than the cheap ones but they might last a long time. I do not know how many I used but I guess it added a few hundred dollars in materials. I also used the same spec grade type switches. Maybe overkill like wiring the circuits with 12 guage but oh well. Another 10 years and the mortgage is paid off. I think I will not have to replace any receptacles or light switches by then. Who knows. I first saw those wimpy electrical receptacles and switches when I worked in home construction setting tile and sometimes installed trim or framed. When I got a job in a 80,000 sf building I got to touch quality receptacles. Kind of like using a Bosch sabre saw after using $30 sabre saws. On the other hand friends who had houses built the same time have not replaced receptacles or switches so maybe I wasted money. It would not be the first time.
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