I=92m working with General Finishes Arm-r-seal oil & urethane topcoat and I=92d like to add some Transtint and use as a toner. The piece is already finished but my sister wants it darker. I mixed some up by first dissolving the dye in 4 parts acetone before adding to the poly and it looks fine on my samples. I plan on applying with a brush.
Does anyone have experience mixing Transtint with oil-based poly?
Thanks
-Scott
I've used it in linseed oil with no problems. In fact I was using a recipe by jeff Jewett himself...
I think my concern with be more with the Transtint product itself than its ability to mix.
I read more and more, and have actually seen (as in with my own eyes) Transtint fade in normal light from a window. The fading was noticed when a lamp was moved to clean the table top, and it there was a perfect, darker circle under the lamp position. Ouch. This happened in a sunny window, but it only took a year.
If you are using this on an outdoor project, you won't have nearly that long to enjoy your tint color.
Robert
Transtint dyes are WATER based dyes. Meaning they are water soluble (also alcohol soluble). Oil based poly dissolves oil based solutes, not water based solutes.
" snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" wrote in news:e22fcc9f- snipped-for-privacy@n11g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:
I did a table with Transtint dyed poplar legs and apron and a light maple top with a water-based poly finish. It has been sitting between a window and a french door for four years. The top has shown color changes from the light, but the dyed portion still looks rich and full of color. This may be because it is dyed black. I also have a rich blue dyed stool that I turned out of poplar that has been outside on the front porch for 2 years. It is finished with spar varnish for the UV filtering. Again, there has been no appreciable change, but it is on the north side getting no direct sunlight.
I know they do warn about fading, but so far I've been pleased.
Jerry
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