not so confused anymore

I am the original poster.
As suggested, I went back to my table saw which is an old 10 inch Craftsman, on the order of about 30 years old. The rip fence is a sheet-metal affair with a "T"casting bolted on one end. I have always had trouble with this rip fence. This fence has an offset rod down through the center of it with a plastic roller on the far end for tightening it to the saw. The very end of this rod has a sqare forged in its end. I saw that this rod was 90 degrees our of position, which caused the roller to bind. Easy to fix. Then I trued up the fence with one of the crosscut slots in the table. The fence still bound a little, so I sprayed the tracks on the fence and the bars that they ride on with a flourocarbon based dry film lubricant. Worked great!
I am using a carbide tipped blade from China from Harbor Freight. But, I now get a rip cut that is almost smooth as glass. Just a touch with a hand sanding block with 220 garnet finishes off the cut edge just great.
I have a nice Stanley block hand plane that I never use. Had it for 30+ years, too. I do keep it sprayed with rust preventative and keep it stored wrapped up in a cloth in my tool box.
My hearty thanks to all who helped me. It's nice to get info from people who know more that I do about what they are doing.
But, I do turn out the nice piece now and then. Am now about halfway into making a six drawer jewlery box for my wife for Christmas. Much easier project with a better rip.
A Merry Christmas to all.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
Add image file
Upload is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.