Newbie Question - Getting sawdust off/out of the wood

Mineral spirits does (do?) not raise the grain the way water does. I'll not say it does not raise the grain at all, but not enough to warrant resanding. Alcohol in the shop will always have at least a little water in it, but probably not enough to be a problem either.

I see no reason to avoid a tackcloth. I have never had a problem with it in the last 25 years.

In some cases like when using an open grained wood like Red Oak, the liquid used can actually cause the pores to fill with sanding dust and cause an uneven appearance.

Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after

Petrolium pased products do not raise the grain like water does.

I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER

I would not either. You are apparently wetting down too many times. Sand through all your grits and then lightly apply water to raise the grain. Then do a final light sanding to remove the fuzz. This most often will be all you will need to do before applying a water based finish.

I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the project and out of the pores of the wood.

That's one of the reasons JOAT's wooddorking gods invented air compressors.

So if you have more than one, is it Minerals Spirit? Minerals Spirits? Or Mineral Spiritses?

Thanks, what I'm getting at is that after I wetted and sanded I've got a little bit more sawdust in/on the wood. I've got to get rid of that, somehow.

BTW, no air compressor here -- wish I did have one.

Never had some fibers embed themselves in the wood?

Me too--on using compressed air. It REALLY cleans dust out of the pores!

Dave

Leon,

Is your compressor an oil-lubed or an airless? And if it's an oil-lubed, do you have an oil filter on it? I've heard that an oil-lubed filter can spray minute quantities of oil which can cause problems with the finish.

I just bought a small (read: cheap) oil-lubed myself, and I've been hesitant to do what you describe for fear of what I just described.

Am I worrying too much?

Thanks.

CORRECTION:

The above should have been:

"I've heard that an oil-lubed *compressor* can spray minute quantities of oil..."

Filters almost never do any spraying themselves...

Yes. I use my oil lubed (and filtered) compressor to blow off projects before and during finishing operations. Unless there's a serious problem with oil contamination of the lines, you shouldn't have problem.

Silicone contamination is even worse than minute particles of oil.

Dave

you can put an oil/water trap somewhere in your airline to alleviate that problem.

Try wiping off the dust with your non-slip router mat. Shake the mat after each wipe.

Tack cloths are not out. Probably more of us use them than make their own. The prevailing theory of those who rail against tack cloth are that they can't crowbar the 99cents out of their wallet to buy one. I am curious about giving a newbie the advice about making one out of old shellac. How much old shellac do you happen to have lying around your place, rbrandywine?

Uh, well not a lot. ;-)

I generally use mineral spirits if I will use varnish. With oil, nothing is necessary.

Are you saying you go water--light sanding--mineral spirits when applying varnish? That makes sense, if it works. But why wouldn't an oil finish require the same treatment? Is it because the oil flows through any small amount of sawdust *on* the wood and sinks into the wood?

Blow it or tack rag it.

Oil lubed. I have never had oil come out of the hose. More often I have a problem with moisture condensing inside the hose and spraying on the wood but that is only a slight mist and quickly evaporates. IMHO your finish will probably hide/blend with, any specs of oil if any comes out.

Probably, I never have had that problem.

That is correct. Oil does not form a film, so any dust just comes off with the oil rag. It is cleaning and applying at the same time. Some people like to sand while the oil is fresh, thinking the dust fills pores; but authorities say it comes out as fast as it goes in.