I'm a newbie at WW and I'm in the process of building Norm's Router
table. Everything is actually going together fairly well.
This morning I had my first accident. I must say I'm still a bit
intimidated by the tablesaw. It's a RYOBI BTS20. I know, I shoulda
Anyways, I've made a habit of cutting and leaving the board on tbe saw,
turning off the saw then pulling the would off. This morning I had a
board 15 inches long. I made a cross cut to remove 3 inches. The
fence was on the left side of the blade. So, I make the cut and take
both hands of the board, step to the left a bit to turn off the saw
and the damn 12 inch piece comes flying off the table and cracks me in
Did I do something wrong??? Is my blade getting dull?
> take both hands of the board,
that's one thing you did wrong. If the saw is running, it's going to
vibrate and the wood will want to walk around. Murphy's law says it's
going to walk directly into the spinning blade, then go for a short flight.
Learn to turn the saw off with one hand, preferably without looking, so
you can keep both eyes on the blade.
Good point, Joe... I missed the part about both hands off the Board...
With a 15" piece of stock I'm not letting go of the sucker until it's lying on
the bench or something.... then, if I'm not cutting something else, I'll use the
push stick to clear the piece I cut off and turn the saw off...
I know, it's overkill, but I think that having a healthy respect/fear is why
I've been playing with power tools for about 50 years still have all my body
parts, as old and creaky as they may be... YMMV
Please remove splinters before emailing
Yes, you used to fence during cross cutting the board. Eventually, as you
found, a board will bind on the blade and come flying off. Consider
yourself lucky if you didn't get a serious injury.
This event happens on all saws.
I agree he did something wrong, I just disagree on what (unless he
actually <did> do what you think). In that case he did <two> things
It's not absolutely clear he used the fence to guide the crosscut, but
if he did, I'll agree that's mistake number one.
The mistake I see is leaving the material on the saw table w/ the blade
running w/o having it secured.
To OP, in my opinion trying to turn the saw off at the earliest possible
instant isn't a necessary action. My recommendation is to complete the
cut ensuring the cutoff piece is well past the blade using a push stick
if necessary to avoid getting close to the blade and pull the primary
piece away from the blade. Then you can go ahead and turn the saw off
at leisure knowing there's no loose piece waiting to get flung at you.
I don't know the arrangement of the on/off switch on this saw but a nice
feature is to have a large "panic button" push switch in a location
where it can easily be hit w/ a knee or thigh (w/o, obviously, going
through contortions which would cause a loss of balance, etc.).
I don't like to think of this as a "panic button", but rather as a
convenient knee switch for everyday use.
I have a proper magnetic contactor on my saw, so I can very easily add
stop switches (just wire them up in series). I have one on each side of
it, with knee paddles. I very rarely turn it off with my hand - much
easier to use a knee and leave both hands free for hold-down.
Yup I screwed up and used the fence for the crosscut. The problm I
have is there's so little table leading in that I can't use the miter
guage. I guess I'll have to make a sled or just pony up for a new saw!
With most saws you can do crosscuts while standing on the same
side of the blade as the switch.
Remove the fence or move it way back out of the way for crosscuts.
Do not use both fence and miter gague for crosscuts.
After cutting, remove the workpiece from the table and use a push
stick to push the cut-off off the table or at least away from
As others have mentioned, a cross-cut sled is much better for
crosscutting than a miter gague.
I wouldn't rely on switch position to determine anything, though most seem
to be left of the blade for right-handers.
If your miter gage and what it's guiding the cross-cutting of can fit right
of the blade, you may use the fence as a stop for repetitive cuts. This if
the fence is not perfectly parallel, but clears a bit to the rear of the
blade. Just remember, the fence is a touch gage, not what you use for
guiding the piece through.
The standard for cuts made with operator and gage left of the blade is the
touch gage block mounted on the fence, but not extending past the beginning
of the blade area. Butt the squared end against, cut through, move the
cutoff right then through and up.
NB - don't tell those people who say that angling the fence to give
clearance past the cut invites disaster about the second method. It refutes
their contention, and can lead to loss of self-esteem.
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