I have some red oak baseboard that I need to finish and want to apply a
polyurethane that will prevent yellowing. Are all brands of
polyurethane the same or are there any brands that I should avoid?
This type of cut is quite common in industry. they sell special machines to
do it. I would look into buyig on of the machines made for this before I
tried any jury rigged operation. Woodsmith has a planner set up to do this
type of cut and I believe Grizzly also has a set up for this. The cost of
either machine is much lower then then the cost of a hospital visit to the
emergency room, even if you have good insurance.
What! ... you haven't heard about the new, 2007, laser guided,
anti-yellowing, "planner"!!?? ;)
... wanna bet he was replying to the thread about gang ripping with two
blades on a table saw and got the wrong thread?
For a reason now forgotten, I was showing a neighbor a couple pieces I
had made a while back. Both oak, one finshed w/water base, one w/oil.
The oil actually looked better as oak has that natural amber hue and
the oil poly warmed it. And, as stated, oak will darken a bit as it
I would also use oil based. When I first started in this hobby, I
always used water based Poly. The projects I made don't look near as
nice as the ones finished in oil.
Also, oil poly is more durable/tough, which is nice to have on a
baseboard which might get banged from time to time.
I don't know if there's any specific brands to avoid. Just get one of
the major brands and you should be fine. If this is the first time
you've ever applied poly, I recommend getting "polyuerethane for
floors". It is thinned a little bit, which makes it much easier to
avoid getting brush marks/bubbles. That's what I use.
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