Yes. Ordinary 'quick chucks' will shake loose. But, again, Metabo sells a double lock 'quick chuck' (e.g. one you tighten by hand, rather than with a key) that will hold the bit even during hammer drill operations. Pricey ...
-P.
No, I am talking a hammer drill. My DeWalt 18 v. has a hammer drill setting, but is seldom used as such. The clutch has the normal low to high settings, the drill setting and the hammer setting. If you only have one decent sized cordless and little (but some) need for hammer drill capabilities, this is a nice setup. If you are hammer drilling on a regular basis, get a dedicated hammer drill (corded in my opinion), but for my use this drill fits my overall needs. Impact drivers, as far as I know, are great for driving screws and bolts in heavy duty situations like deck building. I have never used an impact driver other than a pneumatic for lug nuts. Core drills are another thing altogether given the lubrication needs while drilling and the wetness of their world.
Dave Hall
I've have both 18volt Dewalt and Bosch cordless hammer drills and more recently purchased a Bosch bulldog corded hammer drill. The cordless ones cannot compare to the Bulldog, it will drill and can drive anchors in concrete with little effort, and quickly. The bits for the bulldog are SDS shanks which means they won't fit in a conventional drill. The bulldog is for production drilling in concrete pretty much exclusively. However, if your hubby just needs a hammerdrill for occasional drilling and driving anchors in concrete, the cordless ones will be just fine. They will take a little longer to get the job done, but are more versatile in they can also be used with regular bits to drill wood, metal etc. The Bosch bulldog is somewhat less expensive than the big 18volt cordless models too. --dave
I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?
P.S. One other nice thing about the Bulldog is it can be set to just hammer, and not drill. A chisel can be purchased that will fit in the drill basically making it into a small jack hammer. This feature will come in very handy if the hubby ever wants to demolish a brick or block all. --dave
Hi Jeanne I have several battery hammerdrills ( 18v Milwaukee, 14.4v Porter cable, 36v Hilti) . The battery hammerdrills are OK for a few holes (1/4", 3/8" ) in concrete that hasn't cured for too many years. If he has a project that requires drilling a lot of holes or larger diameter holes then he'll need a corded hammerdrill or rotary hammer(bigger). SDS type of chuck works great. This type of drill is rated to about 1" drills max.. If I have to drill more than a couple of 1/4" holes in older concrete I use the corded type SDS chuck rotary hammer. If he only wants to drill an few 1/4" holes and will use the drill most of the time for wood, metal, and as a screw driver the smaller battery hammerdrills are OK. Jack
I suspect that that's gross overkill unless he's building a Usonian house or something.
The url you provided is exactly as I described. It will do 3x as much work as a standard battery drill. Check it out. I've been using battery drills since they've been invented, and the impact drill fits the bill for all battery drilling. Use one once and you'll buy it. Why so cranky?
GW
In addition, I used to use star drills when I was working as a kid. That makes me very old. Go easy on me. I'm just happy to be here talking with you.
gw
If you liked that URL check out _this_ one.
DeWalt has a rebate on their 18v impact driver. The rebate is an 18v hammerdrill.
I've never seen an impact wrench as an alternative to a drill. I know that others use it this way, I consider it to be misusing the tool.
I've used impact drivers. The one time in my life that I've missed one was when I had a flat tire on a car with wheel locks that someone had put on with an impact driver. There was just no way they were coming off with the standard lug wrench. I've never felt any desire for one working with wood, although I suppose if I was building decks or docks or something for a living I'd find it to be handy.
So, if he had to (hypothetically, of course) chip away part of a concrete patio (the part that is blocking a hypothetical window well), this would do it?
Thanks, Jeanne
Dave,
May I have the model name and number of the Bosch Bulldog? When I read your PS to my husband, he said that was what he wanted. When I tried searching for Bosch Bulldog, I got the Bosch Bulldog Xtreme (corded) rotary hammer (like this:
Thanks, Jeanne
Bulldog is not cordless.
If he wants a cordless SDS hammer then look at , , or for some other brands froogle "sds cordless hammer".
Cordless rotary hammers aren't cheap, not good ones anyway.
The difference between a hammerdrill and a rotary hammer is that a hammerdrill is a carpentry tool--it will make good-sized holes in wood and in sheet metal and occasionally small ones in concrete all day, the sort of thing one does when building houses and wood-frame commercial buildings. A rotary hammer is a heavy construction tool, it will make big holes in concrete and structural steel all day, using special bits that only fit rotary hammers.
Understood.
When I read that corded hammerdrills probably made more sense, I asked my husband if he minded a corded one. He said no, he realized having the cordless traded away too much power and usability for his needs.
Understood.
Oh good. That sounds like what he wants. The previous owner of our house covered up the window wells when the back patio was poured. We want to get rid of the concrete over the window wells. It sounds like the rotary hammer is a better tool for that.
Thanks Jeanne
That sounds more like a job for a breaker hammer. Never had occasion to bust up concrete myself so can't really say how much tool is enough, but suspect you're in the realm where rental will make more sense than buying.
For a job like that I'd rent an electric chipping hammer such as this:
Technically the hammer only feature differentiates that unit as a "rotary hammer" and not a "hammer drill". A rotary hammer is another step up on the heavy duty scale from a hammer drill.
Pete C.
I'd think the best option for that would be a masonry blade in an angle grinder to make a clean cut line a good inch deep to isolate the to be removed section from the remaining patio. At that point just a sledge should be able to break up the to be removed material. A hammer drill or rotary hammer really aren't applicable (except for a very big rotary hammer) and a breaker is just over kill to break up a few square feet of patio slab.
Pete C.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.